Dirn It All!

I love dirndl skirts, so when I saw these two gorgeous border print fabrics at my local Fabricland, I could not resist picking up 2 m of each. These skirts could not be easier to make. Cut the fabric to the desired length (in my case, 24" + 4" for the hem), sew up the single seam after inserting an invisible zipper, throw on a straight waistband, tack on a hook/eye and presto...a summer skirt ready for wearing!

I'm not sure which one I like more - the coral or the teal. And as an added bonus, I still have the extra fabric that was cut off, which will make a cute summer top (or two).

ETA for TwilaO: Both skirts were made from the full 2 m lengths of fabric, gathered to fit the waistband.

McCall's 5632 & Butterick 5187

Pattern: McCall's 5632 (view C) & Butterick 5187 (view A)






























Size: I used the size 8 for both patterns.

Fabric:
For the capris: stretch denim from Fabric Mart.
For the cardigan: papaya linen from Timmel Fabrics (sadly defunct now).

Project Photos & Comments:
Capris ~ I wanted a pair of denim capris as the pair I have now are becoming increasingly thread bare. M5632 appealed to me the first time I saw it, although I don't normally like pants with pleats. This pattern is well drafted and went together smoothly from start to finish. Unfortunately, I am not in love with the pleats, the cuffs or the extremely wide bottom leg circumference on these capris - they all add up to making me look a tad stumpy. If I attempt these capris again, I will be narrowing the leg, forgoing the cuffs and making them in a fabric with more drape and flow - I think that will remedy the "stumpiness" issues.


Cardigan ~ This is just the cutest cardi! I love all the views and hope to make each of them. I decided to start with view A because it spoke the loudest to me. I had some leftover papaya linen from a sundress project a couple of years ago and the weight of it was perfect for this project. I was so pleased when all the pattern pieces just barely squeezed onto my fabric remnant. However, when I cut out the pattern pieces, I must have been daydreaming because I forgot to cut doubles of a few key pieces - namely the inside front and back yokes. I had to use some ecru linen (the only linen I had at the time that was in a compatible colour) to cut these missing pieces. The inside back yoke wasn't a major concern because it isn't visible when the cardigan is being worn. The inside front yoke was a different story, as it also backs the ties at the neck, which are clearly visible when worn.

What to do? What to do? How do I make this screw up look intentional? Well, after putting together the jacket, I top stitched (with a decorative asterisk stitch pre-programmed into my sewing machine) various sections of the papaya regions of the cardigan in a thread that matched the ecru linen. Also, the ecru ties were likewise top stitched with papaya thread. As you can see in the photo to the left, my bonehead mistake now looks like a "design feature" or at least that's what I have been telling myself (so, don't burst my bubble). In the end, I really like this cardigan - it gives off a vintage (1940s?), nautical feel to me.

Conclusion: I am still on the fence as to whether I'll make the capris again, but I will certainly be making all the views of the cardigan. The cardi is a perfect summer cover up for a cool evening or for the daytime when my shoulders are getting roasted in the sun.

Simplicity 3323

Pattern: Simplicity 3323 ~ From the envelope: "Dress has slightly extended shoulders, bateau neckline, back zipper closing and contrasting bias and bow trim. Version 1 features a full gathered skirt."

Size: Sub Teen Size 12 s (bust 31)

Fabric:
Muslin: car print cotton polyester blend
Garment: embroidered cotton w/ a border print
(both fabrics are from Fabricland)











Project Photo:
Comments: I was looking for a simple sun dress to showcase a beautiful border print I found at the local chain fabric store. When working with a border print, I prefer to not have to cut up the border at all, so I wanted a pattern with a dirndl skirt (basically a rectangle that is gathered at the top). When I found this pattern in my vintage stash, I knew it was the one.

I wanted to first make a wearable muslin of the dress before cutting into the good stuff. I'm glad I did. The dress straight from the package was sized for a person with a very short torso - it may be due to the sub-teen sizing on this pattern, although I didn't encounter this problem with other sub-teen patterns I've used in the past. In the end, I added 1.5" to the bodice length. When I make this dress again, I will add another 0.5", to bring the total up to 2" added length.

Flat pattern measuring also suggested that I needed to reduce the size of the two front and two back darts (by 0.5" in each case, to add a total of 2") to accommodate for the larger size of my waist. In the wearable muslin, this worked out beautifully, since the garment sat up above my waist, at the bottom of my ribcage. However, when I lengthened the bodice, I forgot to take into account that my actual waist is smaller than the measurement on my body 2" higher up, so the final dress was roomy in the waist. I removed the skirt and resewed the darts, effectively removing the 2" I had added. I'm pretty good at tweaking patterns to fit me, but every once and a while, I still goof up - ah well, to err is human!

The only other alteration I did was to remove some fabric from the front armscyce (0.25" at the centre, tapering to nothing at the shoulder and underarm seams), as the muslin pulled in this area when I would reach forward. In the next version, I will remove another 0.25" and it should be perfect.

The skirt is a single layer of fabric (too bulky otherwise). However, the bodice was fully underlined with cotton batiste.

Conclusion: The muslin is wearable, although it seems a bit young what with the crazy car print (check it out - it says "vroom!") and the elevated waistline, so it will likely be reserved for weekend wear. The border print version is definitely a winner and will become a regular in my warm weather wardrobe. I actually have another border print fabric that was to become a skirt, but I may end up making this dress again with that fabric.

I Love the Smell of Rayon in the Morning

I just noticed that Lucy's Fabrics has some gorgeous rayon lycra knits. Since I am incapable of saying no to beautiful rayon knits, I purchased the following:

































And, since it seemed wrong to only order a few paltry cuts of knit fabric, I rounded out my package with a brown double knit, a dark brown ottoman knit and a medium brown ottoman knit.

As much as everyone raves about the new poly/lycra knits that are out these days, I just can't get myself to love them too. I have found a few (very few) that are acceptable. However, for the most part, I find them hot and sticky in the summer, static clingy in the winter and usually downright icky feeling. Give me natural, breathable fabrics with a supple hand and now, I'm in heaven. Three cheers for rayon!

Happy Canada Day

To all my fellow Canadians, here's wishing you a happy and safe Canada Day. Whether you're taking in the sun at the beach, paddling on a peaceful lake or barbequing up a storm in your own backyard, I hope you're enjoying this day with family and friends.

Unfortunately, I'm alone today, as my husband had yesterday off (his work tries to place holidays to give them long weekends, which is nice). So, I plan to make good use of my time by sewing. I'm almost finished a cute little tie-front cardigan in a gorgeous deep papaya coloured linen.

In other sewing related news...
I have been on an insane orange kick lately. I cannot get enough of this juicy, citrusy, delicious colour! So, when I stumbled upon Vogue Fabrics latest offerings for summer, I was rendered incapable of resisting the following luscious fabrics:

Chapeaux Blooms - Stretch Cotton Sateen & Chapeaux Tangerine - Blouseweight Linen












Chapeaux Window Panes - Rayon Blend Suiting & Hannah Jardin - Poly Georgette












Oaks Sensation - Variegated Crocheted Novelty & Oaks Delight - Floral Jacquard Knit












Oaks Mango - Poly/Cotton/Lycra Interlock Knit & Oaks Stretch - Cotton/Lycra Stretch Twill












And, get this...drum roll please...I even have a plan for these babies. Check it out:

Also, in the interest of full disclosure, I must admit that I picked up some more fabulous summer fabric at a local store yesterday. I haven't had a chance to photograph them yet, so I don't have any pictures. But, suffice it to say, they helped to sate my appetite for orange as well.

Freedom, Sweet Freedom!

Whew, I made it - just barely. I am officially off for summer vacation for the next 9.5 weeks. This was a very tough year, so I really need this break to decompress.

Things are looking up though.

Firstly, my hip/back is once again in perfect working order - so I can get back to doing stupid things like lifting objects that are much too heavy for me :) Thank you to everyone that offered advice and words of sympathy - they were much appreciated.

Secondly, I am now the proud owner of even more super delicious Japanese pattern books. I think I may have stumbled upon a new addiction (at this point it is yet undetermined where this addiction ranks among all my other addictions, like fabric, vintage patterns, shoes, chocolate and bag piping - okay, maybe not the last one). Here are my new lovelies - behold the splendour:

Sewing Lesson by Machiko Kayaki















Skirt a la carte by Machiko Kayaki















Utsukushi Silhouette no Skirt Angkor Shitakunaru My's Size no Kawaii Smart Style 27 by Watanabe Sato
Okay, this last one doesn't have a shred of English on the cover, so I cut and pasted the title given on the yesasia.com site (the retailer from whom I purchased the books). I have no idea what on Earth that title is supposed to mean. Honestly though I don't care, because inside this book are the most lovely skirts and that's all I need to know.










These books are like the other books I have purchased recently. They all come with full sized pattern sheets that must be traced because there are several pattern pieces, in several sizes on each sheet (think BWOF). After browsing through the newest acquisitions, I have a million ideas buzzing through my brain. Now, it's just a matter of listening for which one buzzes the loudest to determine what's up next on the sewing docket.

Pain in the Back

So, I finally start thinking seriously about sewing again and wouldn't you know it, the universe steps in to put me in my place. Damn you, universe!! (picture me shaking my fist at the sky in righteous indignation)

Yesterday, whilst moving a wall fountain, I did a number on my lower back - if truth be told, it's actually my left hip. As I lifted the fountain, I felt a twinge and then a huge blossom of warm pain. I literally yelped because it hurt so much. I managed to set down the fountain and hobble my way into the house to inform my husband that I had managed to inflict damage upon myself. I think I pinched a nerve something fierce and all day yesterday I could barely sit down, stand, climb the stairs or breathe without pain shooting up my back and down my left leg. Today, I am much better, but I still have some residual creaks and groans - although I do think I am well on my way to recovery.

So, all I have to say is "what the _ _ _ _?" (insert whatever four letter word tickles your fancy). I just turned 38 - how on Earth did I get so old, so fast, that my body is already falling to bits? Man alive, I figured I would have at least 10 more years before stuff like this happened. Blech!

I think my major problem is that I have gained some weight (8 lbs) over the last 6 months and it's not sitting well. To say that I am not happy about my gain in weight is an understatement. Eight pounds on me is a 7% increase in my body mass - not a good thing. So, I have decided that starting today, I am going to start treating myself better - better eating habits, more exercise and a more all around healthful existence. I guess all it took was a pain in the @ss to get me motivated!

To help me in my journey, I have started using Diet Power again - I love this program (I am in no way affiliated with Diet Power, I am just a happy customer - it was my major motivator during my 40 lb weight loss a few years back). This program allows you to track food intake and exercise. If you choose a weight loss program, it estimates your caloric intake on a daily basis and adjusts to keep you headed toward your goal. For me, keeping a close eye on my daily calorie budget is a must if I wish to be successful.

So, for anyone else interested in a more healthy lifestyle, feel free to join me in my quest. I know I can do this - it's just a matter of motivation and keeping an eye on my goal.

It's So Close I Can Taste It!

Okay, so I have been a bad, bad blogger. My posting has been spotty at best lately - but, this time of year always kicks my butt. Finishing out the school year is hectic to say the least - what with the classes to finish, the exams to create and mark, the final grades to calculate and turn in, the classroom to clean, the graduation to attend, the preparations for next September to make...well, you get the idea. So, sewing has been on the back burner (which sucks in ways I can't describe lest I lose my PG rating). I have one more week of this necessary horror until I am free for 9.5 weeks, yep, that's right, 9.5 weeks. I always day dream about quitting work and sewing all day, but then where would I wear all the fabulous clothes I'd make? It's quite the conundrum.

I have a preliminary plan for my summer sewing all laid out and I present it here for your viewing pleasure. It is based on a teal/lime/aqua/yellow colour scheme. I was so inspired by Audrey and the beautiful colours she has chosen to sew lately (if you haven't checked out her work, you do not know what you're missing - she is an exceptional seamstress). Unfortunately, I can't wear pastels as well as she can, so for the most part, I went with more saturated and intense colours. All year long, I wear autumn colours (brown, rust, mustard, green, terracotta), so in the summer it's nice to sew up a bunch of brights that aren't my norm.

I also have a coral/orange plan in the works too, although it's not as fleshed out yet. You'll notice that I am rather spotty with the pattern choices at this point - hopefully, over the next while I'll figure out what those fabrics are destined to become.

Now, all I need is some student-free days and some motivation. I expect both will be in vast supply on June 26th at 2:25 p.m. I just pray to all that is good, that I make it 'til then without killing anyone!