My Old Friend, the SWAP

SWAP = Sewing with a Plan

Many of you are familiar with this concept, having either read about it or participated in the contests.  Back in the day, Julie of Timmel Fabrics (Julie, if you're reading, I sure do miss you and your fabric!) ran the SWAP contest.  These days, the lovely folks over at Stitcher's Guild Forum have taken over the reins.

The SWAP concept (and subsequent Timmel Fabrics contest) was based on an idea presented in Australian Stitches magazine about a decade or so ago.  The idea was to create a wardrobe that is cohesive, both in colour and style.  The different garments (one jacket, two pairs of pants, two skirts and six tops were required in the original SWAP contest) in a grouping should work together to provide the wearer with several mix and match outfits.

I used to do almost all of my sewing in SWAPs.   However, over the last while I had gotten away from sewing this way.  Well, earlier this week I was perusing back issues of Australian Stitches magazine.  Lynn Cook (one of the editors) had put together a lovely wardrobe (see issues Vol. 15, No. 9 to Vol. 16 No. 4 if they are available to you).  In the first issue, she sewed up a jacket, two skirts, a pair of pants and two tops in black, white and red fabrics.  In each consecutive issue, she added to the mix with further garments.  Along the way, she added in other colours (orange, teal, bone, lavender, etc).  In the end, she created a beautifully coordinated wardrobe. 

This was very inspiring to read, so based on her plans, I put together my own version:

SWAP Phase 1 - based on Vol. 15 No. 9:

SWAP Phase 2 - based on Vol. 15 No. 10:

SWAP Phase 3 - based on Vol. 15 No. 11: 

SWAP Phase 4 - based on Vol. 15 No. 12:

SWAP Phase 5 - based on Vol. 16 No. 1:

SWAP Phase 6 - based on Vol. 16 No. 2:

SWAP Phase 7 - based on Vol. 16 No. 3:

SWAP Phase 8 - based on Vol. 16 No. 4:

The vast majority of fabrics were in my stash.  However, I do have three fabrics that are still alluding me at this point (ETA: I found three fabrics that finished off my SWAP, so the storyboards have been updated).  The patterns are a mix of recent and older ones that I had in my possession.  I may add or modify as I go along if I find it necessary.

I have already started on the plans above - one garment is finished and several more are cut out.  So, stay tuned...

Memories of a Prom Dress

As many of you know, I chaperone Prom every year and this year* was no exception.  As per my usual, I sewed up a spiffy little dress.  I love attending Prom because it allows me to indulge in my desire for pretty party dresses by providing me with a venue to display said dresses.

This year, I revisited a lovely vintage pattern, Simplicity 3323.  I have made this pattern before, so knew how to put it together quickly (since I was coming down to the wire in terms of timing - why, oh why, do I always leave my Prom dresses to the last minute?).  I also had a list of tweaks to make to the dress that I had jotted down from the first go around.  The bodice was lengthened by 1" and I scooped away a 1/2" of the front armscyces, as the original dress was binding on my arms when I would reach forward.  This solved the really rather annoying straight-jackety feeling.

I chose a bright blue taffeta that had black flocked roses scattered over the fabric.  I had received this fabric as a freebie from Fabric Mart a year or so ago and it had been impatiently aging in my stash ever since.  I am absolutely smitten with this fabric, but I never would have purchased it on my own.  Thank you Fabric Mart's Free Bundle for providing me with interesting and unexpected  textiles! 

Only the bodice is lined (with some black silk dupioni that was left over from another project), as the flocked fabric is not transparent at all and I wanted the dress to be light and airy for a warm day.

I accessorized the distinctly 50s dress with a pair of metallic T-strap heels and a small sparkly pin at the waist.

I received many compliments (from students and staff alike) and I was cool and comfortable all evening.  This dress was a definite winner!

* Prom actually occurred at the beginning of May, so let's pretend it didn't take me two months to post this, mmkay?

Simplicity 2871

As the school year is winding down (my last day of work is June 30th), the workload is heating up.  The last month of school is always a whirlwind of activity.

Also, my gardens are demanding more and more attention.  So, I have been spending many hours on the weekends digging, pruning, transplanting and deadheading. 

Not to mention, my house looks like a pig sty because I simply don't have enough time for real cleaning duties.  Not that my husband or Simon notice.  Why are most men so oblivious to filth? 

So, unfortunately sewing has been on the back burner at Chez HZC lately.

However, I will sew today.

I already have the project all picked out.  I don't normally go for sheath style dresses, but Simplicity 2871 looks so chic (and above all, easy to sew). 

I have a navy floral cotton pique fabric all picked out and ready for cutting.  It was a freebie in a Fabric Mart bundle, so hopefully it makes a nice wearable muslin.  But, if this project goes south, no tears will be shed.

Now, I just need to get my arse in gear...

Going in (Half) Circles

I have made vintage Simplicity 3881 in the past (see here and here).  It is a lovely half circle skirt that fits nicely and flatters my pear shape by remaining smooth and close fitting at the waist and flaring out over the hip.  So, when I was looking for the perfect pattern to use with a great piece of dusty yellow linen with a brown and blue plaid pattern (from Fabric Mart), this retro pattern came to mind instantly.

The trickiest part of the whole project was ensuring that the plaid lined up on each side seam.  However, with some careful cutting, a bit of patience and a ton of pins, the mission was accomplished.  The only other hitch was getting the skirt hemmed at the proper length all the way around.  A portion of the skirt is cut on the bias and after hanging for a few days (to allow the bias cut fabric to relax), I had a severely misshapen skirt. So, I just used my tape measure and measured down equal amounts from the waistband guaranteeing a perfectly level hem.

So, here's the finished product, all put together for work.  On top I have a pale yellow sleeveless sweater and a teal cardigan.  The cardigan is pinned together at the top with an over-sized dark peach enamel flower brooch (a gift from my Mom - she keeps me decked out in all sorts of gorgeous costume jewelery).  On my feet are a pair of brown leather sling back heels that sport an adorable little bow on the front.  These shoes were a purchased at Nine West several years ago.  At the time, the round toe look was just coming back in and I wasn't completely sold on the style (the 80s had trained my eye to see pointy toed pumps as the only fashionable choice).  I am so glad I didn't pass these shoes up though, as they have been a great addition to my wardrobe. 

Isn't it funny how odd a new style can seem when you first see it?  If you're like me, you vow that you will never wear the new style and dismiss it.  Then, after a few weeks (or months or years), when your eye becomes more accustomed to the look, you start to warm up to the new fashion.  I was like this with capris, platform heels and big scarves as indoor wear.  Now, I can't imagine going without.

So, dear reader, any fashion trends that initially struck you as horrid, only to later become some of your favourites?

Purple Nurple

Not much sewing has been going on around Chez HZC lately (due to exploding life syndrome). So in a desperate attempt to ensure that my faithful readers don't abandon me, I will be presenting some of my daily outfits over the next while (at least until I get my arse back in front of my Kenmore). Practically everything I wear has come off my sewing machine, so at least I'm still remotely on point.

I made this top and skirt in January of this year, but didn't get any photos of myself wearing them. I don't wear a lot of purple as it is tricky to find a shade of purple that doesn't clash horribly with my hair. I think this outfit works because of the copper mottling in the lace top that matches my hair colour.

To finish off the outfit, I donned a pair of dark purple tights and a funky mother of pearl and silver filigree pendant necklace. The shoes are a new acquisition from Naturalizer - a funky pair of low heeled mary janes in a gorgeous pinot noir (purply burgundy) pebbly leather. Not only are they comfortable for clomping around school all day long but they are so darn cute!


**Although I have never been the perpetrator nor the victim of the dreaded "purple nurple", I have always been amused by this rhyming phrase. However, I can't help but wonder who came up with such a cutesy name to describe this weird bullying technique. Yeesh.

Bootie or Not Bootie

In a previous post, I professed my growing love for the skirt, tights, bootie combo that I'm seeing around the fashion blogs as of late. Some commenters agreed with me that the look is potentially super cute and others were not sold on the whole thing. I must admit when I first saw booties worn with skirts, I thought it looked ridiculous. However, as time has past, I think I have become more accustomed to the silhouette and I now think it's quite fetching.

So, today I put together my first bootie-tights-skirt (I first typed this as tight-bootie-skirt and got a good chuckle) outfit. The skirt is Simplicity 4422 (view F), done up in a burgundy tweed flecked with dark brown and tan. The top is Vogue 2759 in a dark brown knit.

I must say that I felt pretty good in the outfit all day long and received compliments from both students and colleagues. Looking at the photo though, I think next time I will try and match the colour of the tights more closely to the bootie for a longer leg line. As well, I never tuck in my tops, so this was a real departure for me, but it actually doesn't look as bad as I expected. Last but not least, this outfit makes the pesky 10 lbs I want to drop a little more obvious than I would like - time to hit the treadmill and weight machine harder. So, all in all, pretty good, but a few things to keep in mind for next time.

So, what do y'all think? Yay or nay? Bear in mind that I am venturing into new territory here, so please be gentle.

It Is Easy Being Green

Pattern: Simplicity 3874 (view B shortened to a top) & Loes Hinse Hepburn Pants (view A).


Size: Top - size 8;

Fabric: Top - beige popcorn stitch tencel knit from Wazoodle; Pants - heathered green RPL from Timmel Fabrics.

Project Photo:

Comments: I have had a SWAP plan put together for a while now. I had originally debated about joining last year's Stitcher's Guild SWAP contest using this plan, but in the end I decided to pass. Unfortunately, passing on the contest also caused me to forget about my plan. Well, no more, the plan has been unearthed (and revamped - more on that later) and the sewing has begun.

Behold the first two pieces from the "It Is Easy Being Green" plan. The pants are my TNT Hepburn pants. The top is a shortened version of S3874. I love this pattern as a dress, so I figured why not crop it up into a top. I like the result - basically a T-shirt that has been given some extra interest due to the under bust tie.

Conclusion: Two great transitional pieces for fall. Now, I just need to find some time in my busy schedule (I tell ya, all this workin' for a living really is cramping my sewing mojo!) to continue working on this SWAP plan.

Simplicity 3874

Pattern: Simplicity 3874 (view B)


Size: Size 8 from shoulder to high hip, out to size 12 downward (I probably only need to go out to a 10 here, but I sit a lot in my job, so I wanted the extra room for comfort)

Fabric: Brown floral print polyester silky - bought in England last summer when I was on vacation.

Project Photo:

Comments: I have made this dress a couple of times in the past and I was quite taken with it. So, when I was rummaging through my stash and came across this polyester woven, I immediately thought of S3874. This seems to be the pretty much the only pattern for which I use polyester fabrics.

As I have explained in the past, I tend to have a high thermostat and poly fabrics can be hot and uncomfortable for me. However, dresses tend to have enough openness and opportunity for air flow, that I can generally get away with a poly dress during spring and fall when the weather is cooler.

The last two times I made this dress, I forgot to make a broad back adjustment and the bodice was a tad restrictive. This time I actually remembered and what a difference it makes!

As with the other versions, I didn't line the dress (the pattern doesn't call for it anyhow). This is an overheating-avoidance decision, being the hot tamale that I am.

Conclusion: Another great version of a TNT dress. Will I make it again? Highly likely!

Simplicity 3867

Pattern: Simplicity 3867 (view A & F)


Size: size 8

Fabric: Lime w/teal and white floral print cotton voile & teal cotton voile, both from Fabricland (Canadian chain fabric store).

Project Photo: The dress, both with the jacket and without.


Comments: I bought this pattern when it first came out and promptly cut out the dress. Then it sat languishing on a pile for two years, sad and forgotten. Well, no more, I finally rescued the poor thing from a life of banishment. It's nice to check one off the UFO pile!

This dress (and the accompanying bolero) went together very easily - no fuss, no muss. It's perfect for warm days when I need to be a bit dressier - it will work wonderfully for work in the early fall.

The only change I made to the pattern is a broad back adjustment (BBA) on both the dress and bolero. Although I am small through the chest, I find that I have a disproportionately large back across the shoulder blades. This can make my tops feel like they are pulling across the back when I try to reach forward. This is especially true at school when I am trying to write on the chalkboard. This BBA is just the trick needed to add a bit of ease where I need it.

Conclusion: Pretty dress, cute bolero. I have already cut out another version of the dress in an Anna Sui scarf panel silk.

Butterick 4986 & Kwik Sew 2948 & Simplicity 7816

Pattern: Butterick 4986 (view A) & Kwik Sew 2948 & vintage Simplicity 7816 (view 4 - minus the pockets)


Size: Top (B4986) - size 8; Tank top (KS2948) - size XS; Skirt (S7816) - waist 24" and hip 34.5"

Fabric: Top - Blue waves rayon lycra knit from Lucy's Fabrics; Tank top - teal slinky knit from Timmel Fabrics; Skirt - Kiwi waffle weave linen from Fabric Mart.

Project Photo:

Comments: Sometimes ya just gotta have a bright outfit! I love teal and lime green together - it just screams summer to me. So when I noticed how well all these fabrics coordinated, it was a no-brainer to create an outfit.

The Kwik Sew tank top is the only pattern of the three that I have sewn with before and it is a TNT. Easy to put together and very flattering for a simple shell.

In the past, I have tried several twist top patterns (the kind that is an actual wear alone top like the ones in Simplicity 4076) and I never have luck with them. As a very small busted woman, I could never get the top to look right - even with a small bust adjustment on these patterns, the bodice still looked saggy and unfilled. Not to mention, these tops are always so insanely low cut, which is not a good look if you have a fairly bony upper chest like I do. However, B4986 caught my eye when it first came out because of the nifty twist on the front and the fact that it is a cardigan style, rather than a stand alone T-shirt. Well, I am a huge fan of this pattern - it fits well, it's easy to make and it's super cute!

The skirt is made from a vintage pattern that I have had in my stash for a while. I like all the different options provided in this pattern. I plan on making all of them at some point because of the success I had with this skirt. My only issue with the skirt is the fault of the fabric - it wrinkles like mad. Normally, I'm cool with the rumples in linen, but this particular fabric is evil incarnate - it wrinkles even if you look at it sideways. Oh well, next time I make it, I'll use better fabric.

Conclusion: A fun and funky summer outfit that reminds me of sherbet (umm, sherbet...).

Simplicity 4045 & Loes Hinse Hepburn Pants

Pattern: Simplicity 4045 (view B) & Loes Hinse Hepburn Pants


Size: Top - size 8; Pants - size S

Fabric: Top - jade handkerchief linen from fabric Mart; Pants - brown rayon/linen from fabric Mart.


Project Photo:

Comments: Good ole Hepburn pants again, but this time I opted for the cropped version. As I've said before, I realize that all the image consultants say that short gals shouldn't wear cropped pants because it makes us look stumpy(er). A longer pant is always suggested as it's more likely to fool the observer into seeing a long, tall line. Well, I got news for ya - I'm short and you can dress me in pants to the floor made out of pinstripe fabric and then get me to strap on 6" heels and I will still be short. So, sometimes I just toss out what's "best" and opt for what makes me happy - hence, cropped pants.

I have also made the top in the past - well, sort of. I had actually made a dress, but the bias cut did my pear shaped figure no favours, so I hacked off the bottom and hemmed it up into a top. So, this time I went straight for the top pattern. Unfortunately, as it's designed, the top pattern is quite short - too short for my liking if I turned up the recommended hem. So, I used hem tape and turned up a scant 1/2" hem to get as much length as I could. Next time I make this top, I will be adding 3" to the bottom.

Conclusion: I love this colour combo. I can't seem to get enough of it lately. I also love these two patterns, so I'm a happy lass!

Simplicity 3874

Pattern: Simplicity 3874 (view B)


Size: size 8 from shoulder to high hip, out to size 12 downward (I probably only need to go out to a 10 here, but I sit a lot in my job, so I wanted the extra room for comfort)

Fabric: Peach bubble print polyester woven (normally I hate 100% poly, but this fabric is actually quite nice) from Fabricland (a Canadian chain fabric store).









Project Photo:

Comments: I have made this dress once before and I absolutely love wearing it. It is such a simple, easy-to-sew dress that is so flattering on my body type. I love the empire styling and the bow that cinches up the front. Not to mention the great raglan sleeves, that add width to my shoulders to balance out my bottom half. This dress is an all around winner.

As with the other version of this dress, I chose to leave it unlined, since the fabric is quite opaque. Also, I will normally be wearing it in warmer weather, so I didn't want to add to the non-breathability of the polyester fabric. If I do wear the dress on a cooler day, I can add a separate slip and a cardigan to keep me warm.

Next time I make this dress, I am debating about leaving out the back zipper. The dress goes on over my head, even if it's zipped up. The only problem with this is that I like to get dressed after doing my makeup and hair and I don't want to mess that up putting on a zipperless dress. Hmm, decisions, decisions...

Conclusion: Such a wonderful dress! I have a few other versions on the drawing board and hopefully I'll get them made up in the near future.

Simplicity 3887 & Loes Hinse Hepburn Pants

Pattern: Simplicity 3887 (view C) & Loes Hinse Hepburn Pants


Size: Top - size 8; Pants - size S

Fabric: Top - abstract print cotton voile from Fabric Mart; Pants - brown rayon/linen blend from Fabric Mart.


Project Photo:

Comments: Another outfit made from patterns I have used in the past. I made this top a couple of times before and I really enjoy wearing both versions, so when I was trying to decide on an airy, blousey top to make using this lovely cotton voile, S3887 immediately sprang to mind. I really pleased with the result - this top is cool and comfortable, but still quite chic.

The pants are my TNT Loes Hinse Hepburn pants. When I want a quick pair of flattering pants, this is the pattern to which I inevitably turn. I know that the style gurus are stating that skinnier pants will be in for fall, but I'm not sure that I can pull off a closer fit like that on my bottom half. Maybe I'll warm up to this trend but, for now, I'm sticking with what I know works for me.

Conclusion: Another easy-to-wear outfit for work. This pair of garments should help my work wardrobe transition from summer to fall nicely.

Simplicity 7990 Again

Pattern: Simplicity 7990 (vintage)

Size: 8

Fabric: Tan scallop-edged eyelet from Timmel Fabrics & Jade handkerchief linen from Fabric Mart.


Project Photo:

Comments:
Have you ever been just going about your business and then inspiration hits? Without warning an all-consuming passion engulfs you - you're unable to focus on anything but your vision. The world slides away and the creative drive kicks into high gear. Ever been there? I have and this dress is the result of one of those episodes.

One day as I was rearranging some of my stash, I came across the tan eyelet fabric and opened it up to get a better look. It just happened to fall on top of the jade linen and the combination of the two colours was entrancing. At first, I was just going to underline the eyelet with the linen and let the jade peek through the eyelet holes, but that didn't show off the scalloped edges to the best advantage. Having just finished another S7990 dress that had a border print at the hem, I decided to use the scallops at the hem in much the same way. Then I mused about where else the scallops could be used to advantage and the bodice you see here was born. This bodice is the same one I drafted for this version of S7990, except the front neckline slit was sewn shut.

The bodice is underlined and the midriff panel and skirt are lined in the jade fabric. The lining for the skirt is not fully loose however - it is attached at the side seams all the way down, but it hangs free in between. I think it makes the interior of the dress almost as pretty as the exterior. All the facings were hand stitched to the underlining and it gives the dress a nice clean appearance, inside and out. It also gives the dress a nice heft.

When the dress was finished, it still needed one more dash of jade fabric. So, the belt was created and I think it added the perfect finishing touch.

Conclusion:
I love this dress. The combination of colours. The placement of the eyelet "stripes" horizontally on the skirt, vertically on the bodice and diagonally on the midriff. The location of the scallops. The fit. The cute little belt tied in a bow. I know I sound like a big ole braggart, but I can't help it - I love it all!