SWAP, SWAP, SWAPing Along

Where have I been for a month?  Sewing, sewing and sewing (and sewing!).  I have been going great gangbusters in the sewing room.  My mojo is back and it has been demanding that I sew.  I have learned to never question the mojo, so I have been following orders.

Since we last spoke, I have created 31 garments associated with my SWAP.  As many of the patterns are new to me, in many cases I made a wearable muslin (or two) to tweak the fit and then sewed up the real deal.  I did all the muslins in fabrics that coordinate with this SWAP (or another SWAP that I am already planning for winter), so I now have a ton of new wardrobe additions for the start of the school year (which happens in one week - eek!).

Needless to say, I have a butt load of SWAP garment goodness to show you.  Just gotta dust off the camera and slap on some make up.  So, stay tuned...

I Love Fabric Mart

Yesterday, I showed you my new SWAP.  I mentioned that I still needed three fabrics to complete the plans.  Well, Fabric Mart came through for me with not only the fabrics I needed, but at a 35% discount to boot.  Yee Haw!  I have updated yesterday's post to reflect the addition of the new fabrics. 

While I was buying the three fabrics I needed for SWAP, I may have also tossed in another three goodies and a mystery bundle.

Behold the bounty:

These three are the SWAP fabrics (silk crepe de chine, silk blend burnout print & silk animal print):

And, these three are the "just 'cause" fabrics (all three are RPL suitings):

 

And, that my friends is why I <3 Fabric Mart - like a great friend, they are always there for me when I need them.  Now, I just hope that none of the SWAP fabrics sell out before they get to my order.  If that happens, I may have to cut a bitch.  What?  Seems harsh?  It's fabric acquisition, people - there is no room for niceties when it comes to fabric acquisition.  Sheesh, I thought you'd know that by now.

My Old Friend, the SWAP

SWAP = Sewing with a Plan

Many of you are familiar with this concept, having either read about it or participated in the contests.  Back in the day, Julie of Timmel Fabrics (Julie, if you're reading, I sure do miss you and your fabric!) ran the SWAP contest.  These days, the lovely folks over at Stitcher's Guild Forum have taken over the reins.

The SWAP concept (and subsequent Timmel Fabrics contest) was based on an idea presented in Australian Stitches magazine about a decade or so ago.  The idea was to create a wardrobe that is cohesive, both in colour and style.  The different garments (one jacket, two pairs of pants, two skirts and six tops were required in the original SWAP contest) in a grouping should work together to provide the wearer with several mix and match outfits.

I used to do almost all of my sewing in SWAPs.   However, over the last while I had gotten away from sewing this way.  Well, earlier this week I was perusing back issues of Australian Stitches magazine.  Lynn Cook (one of the editors) had put together a lovely wardrobe (see issues Vol. 15, No. 9 to Vol. 16 No. 4 if they are available to you).  In the first issue, she sewed up a jacket, two skirts, a pair of pants and two tops in black, white and red fabrics.  In each consecutive issue, she added to the mix with further garments.  Along the way, she added in other colours (orange, teal, bone, lavender, etc).  In the end, she created a beautifully coordinated wardrobe. 

This was very inspiring to read, so based on her plans, I put together my own version:

SWAP Phase 1 - based on Vol. 15 No. 9:

SWAP Phase 2 - based on Vol. 15 No. 10:

SWAP Phase 3 - based on Vol. 15 No. 11: 

SWAP Phase 4 - based on Vol. 15 No. 12:

SWAP Phase 5 - based on Vol. 16 No. 1:

SWAP Phase 6 - based on Vol. 16 No. 2:

SWAP Phase 7 - based on Vol. 16 No. 3:

SWAP Phase 8 - based on Vol. 16 No. 4:

The vast majority of fabrics were in my stash.  However, I do have three fabrics that are still alluding me at this point (ETA: I found three fabrics that finished off my SWAP, so the storyboards have been updated).  The patterns are a mix of recent and older ones that I had in my possession.  I may add or modify as I go along if I find it necessary.

I have already started on the plans above - one garment is finished and several more are cut out.  So, stay tuned...

To SWAP or not to SWAP

As many of you know, when Julie of Timmel Fabrics closed down her operations earlier this year, the annual SWAP contest was in peril of ending. Well, the ladies at Stitchers' Guild came to the rescue and the SWAP is indeed on again this year. The rules are the basic originals (1 jacket, 6 tops, 4 bottoms - all tops match all bottoms and the jacket pairs with each combo), with the only main difference being the time line. Sewing begins today, November 1st, 2008 and ends April 30th, 2009 (ie, a 6 month time span). The twist this year is that the wardrobe must be sewn for a week in your real life (whether you are a professional, a retiree or a SAHM).

Since the announcement came out (several months ago) that SWAP would once again take place this year, I have wavered back and forth (and back again) as to whether I would throw my hat in the ring again this year.

I have participated in the past three SWAPs and my wardrobe is better for it and adding more clothes to my closet is never a bad thing. However, a 6 month time line seems painful to me - when I decide to sew...I sew...now...no messing around, so trying to stretch this out for 6 months could be torture. However, I suppose I could just sew everything up quickly and then just add additional pieces as a SWAP extension. I do, after all, have the following SWAP (plus extensions and some of the extension garments are started) that I planned out last year. I'm just not sure I'm willing to commit to the actual contest. Maybe, I'll just sew along. But then, why not just enter? Ugh...see, I go back and forth. I guess there is no real hurry, I have 6 months to decide!

In other sewing news, I have been really looking at my stash of Loes Hinse patterns lately. I have a lot of holes in my professional winter wardrobe and I want to whip up some nice looking, simple, sophisticated clothes to plug the leaks. I have always liked the LH (and Textile Studio) patterns, but I haven't always used them to the fullest, so I'm going to be starting a LH sewing marathon. My greatest needs are for bottoms (pants and skirts), so I will start there. Hopefully, before this weekend is over, I will have at least one pair of pants and a skirt done. We'll see...

SWAP Results

Here are the results of SWAP 2008. I am struck by the variety of locales represented in this list - SWAP is bringing together nations. It's like the U.N. of sewing!

First Place - Laura P. in Bucarest, Romania

Second Place - Shannon M. in LaSalle, Ontario, Canada

Third Place - Maria G. in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Fourth Place -Johanna L. in Goteberg, Sweden

Fifth Place - Heather D. in Wellington, New Zealand


I was flabbergasted that I took second place. Seeing as today is my birthday, I can't imagine a better present!!

I want to extend a congratulations to everyone that was involved with SWAP 2008 - this was a most successful year. Most of all, I want to thank Julie, of Timmel Fabrics, for sponsoring this event. Over the last few years, she has changed how I approach my sewing and I am indebted to her.

Now, if I can shake the nasty cold I have right now, I will be diving into warm weather sewing over the next few weeks. I have so many ideas...I better get crackin'.

SWAP Pics are Up!!

Julie has posted the SWAP pictures and commentaries on her website, Timmel Fabrics. Go check out all the wonderful entries if you have a few moments to spare.

This year is bigger than ever. A grand total of 37 SWAPs have been submitted. It is amazing to see all the different fabrics, patterns and styles displayed.

A big thank you to Julie for once again taking on this contest and all the planning and work that goes along with it.

SWAP Combos - Part 3

In my last two posts, I posted pictures of all the combos possible with the suiting pieces from my SWAP. Today, I want to finish up my SWAP photos with a few pictures of the dresses and the coat. I realize these aren't really combos, but I really love these pieces and I don't want to hurt their feelings by leaving them out of the fun!

Chocolate brown wool crepe dress (M7888)



















Yellow silk dupioni dress (S7990)



















Beige wool crepe coat (V5630)



















That about wraps up the SWAP 2008 photo shoot. I am really pleased with how it all turned out. Now, over the next few weeks, I will be planning out my spring and summer wardrobe - I can't wait!

SWAP Combos - Part 2

In my last post, I showed several of the combinations that could be made with my SWAP suiting separates. Today, I want to show you some more. However, I first want to say a big, fat thank-you to everyone that has stopped by and left such wonderful comments. Since I don't have any "real life" sewing compatriots, I really cherish all my cyber buddies (both old friends and new acquaintances).

Without further ado, here are all the possibilities with the multi-coloured tweed top:

Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 -wardrobe pattern)



















Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + green herringbone skirt (B4105)



















Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050)



















Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + terracotta skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)





















And here are all the possibilities with the terracotta wool top:

Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + terracotta skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)



















Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050)



















Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + green herringbone skirt (B4105)



















Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 -wardrobe pattern)




















Tomorrow: A few views of the dresses and the coat.

SWAP Combos - Part 1

Over the next few days, I want to finish up my SWAP 2008 posts with pictures of the combinations that are possible using the different garments.

Today, I will start with the all the combos based the sand wool crepe top:

Sand wool crepe top (V1050) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050) + beige wool crepe coat (V5630)
This picture cracks me up. I guess I must be daydreaming about all the possible SWAP combos I can create with my new wardrobe!
















Sand wool crepe top (V1050) + green herringbone wool skirt (B4105)



















Sand wool crepe top (V1050) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)



















Sand wool crepe top (V1050) + terracotta wool skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)




















Next up, all the combinations with the green herringbone top:

Green herringbone top (B4105) + green herringbone skirt (B4105)



















Green herringbone top (B4105) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050)



















Green herringbone top (B4105) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)



















Green herringbone top (B4105) + terracotta skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)




















Tomorrow: All the combos with the multi-coloured tweed top and the terracotta top.

Coat of Charms

Jacqueline Kennedy wore this coat to her husband's inauguration ceremony on January 20, 1961. The coat was created in wool melton by Oleg Cassini. The coat was accessorized with a sable muff (to match the collar) to ensure that Jackie was warm enough on the cold January day.

Since I loved the lines and the colour of this coat, it was a no-brainer to include a garment inspired by it. As extra incentive, I was in need of a formal coat for layering over evening wear during the cooler weather months.

So, I was hoping to find a coat pattern that had similar lines. I searched eBay and several vintage pattern sites and came up empty. Then one day as I was flipping through my vintage patterns, I came across Vogue 5630. Sometimes exactly what you want really is right beneath your nose! Although there is no copyright date on the pattern, one quick glance at the drawing of the largest woman on the envelope front suggests that this pattern was meant to be a JK coat knockoff. The major style lines are the same and she is even holding a fur muff.

I debated about using this pattern to create a line for line replica of the JK coat, but in the end decided against it. I chose to use the pattern's more subtle pockets, rather than the large patch pockets - I try not to focus attention on my hip region. Also, I went with full length sleeves, rather than the 3/4 sleeves on the JK coat. I am not likely to wear long gloves and I want to stay warm, so longer sleeves it was! In the end, I used view A for the body and view C for the sleeves.

I made my coat of sand wool crepe, purchased from Fabric Mart during their wool blow-out a while back. The entire coat is interlined in a thick cotton flannel, to provide warmth and stability. The coat is lined in a stretch polyester charmeuse in a gorgeous copper colour.

Although the coat is classic and simple, there are a few features that set it apart. The front of the coat is topstitched along the princess seams, in which in-seam pockets are included (photo to the left). The closures in front consists of four bound buttonholes and four large self fabric covered buttons (photo to the right), which are backed by smaller buttons on the inside to make them more stable. The hems and lining were completed entirely by hand to keep the front clean and stitch free.

I can honestly say that I adore this coat. It is certainly one of my favourite pieces that I made for this year's SWAP, maybe one of my favourite pieces ever. I knew I was smitten as I was sewing it and the moment it was finished and I put it on, it was love! As I have mentioned before, I prefer a garment that has a certain weight to it - it just makes the entire piece feel luxurious.

Without further ado, here are a few shots of my coat, worn over some of my other SWAP garments:



















Over the next few days, I plan on showing you a few more pictures showing several combinations that can be made using my SWAP garments. So, stay tuned...

My Chanel-ish Suit - Part 2

*Rachelle asked, "Do you think you'd mind showing us the inside of the jacket?"
No problem, here's the inside of both the skirt and the jacket. The jacket lining was inserted completely by hand, as I feel it gives me more control over the placement.




















As well, here is a close-up of one of the buttons (which I adore). The buttons are vintage glass with a tortoise pattern. This photo also gives you a much nicer view of the fabric. It is amazing the depth of colour that this fabric possesses.

I had forgotten to mention that the jacket was interfaced with sew-in hair canvas. The front facing, the back neck facing, the jacket hem and sleeve hems all benefited from the addition of this wonderful interfacing. It gives the jacket the perfect body and weight. I had hoped to finish off the inside of the jacket with chain, a la Chanel, but I could not find anything appropriate in any of my local stores. For future softly tailored jackets like this, I suppose I will have to turn my search to the internet. Anyone have any vendor suggestions? Marji?

My Chanel-ish Suit

When I first saw this fabric on the Sawyer Brook website, it basically reached through the monitor and demanded that I own it. The name of this fabric was Cucurbits and to learn more about this name, visit Barb's Fabric Blog (the blog of the owner of Sawyer Brook).

When designing my SWAP, this fabric was chosen to be the central focus and all the other fabrics were picked based on colours found therein. In real life, the colours in this fabric are far more vivid and rich - it is one of the most beautiful wools with which I have ever worked.

Obviously, I needed an amazing pattern (or two) to showcase this exquisite fabric - something simple and classic. I decided to create a Chanel-style suit using Simplicity 3108 for the jacket and Vogue 5521 (which is my SWAP wardrobe pattern) for a slim skirt.















The Vogue 5521 slim skirt was very straightforward to sew - two darts in front, two darts in back, side zipper and a waistband. The only interesting thing about this skirt is the kick pleat. The back of the skirt is cut on a fold and a straight line of stitching, parallel to the centre back fold, creates a large pleat in the centre back which extends down to the hem. This pleat is pressed to one side and stitched down 8 inches above the hem. Below this, the pleat releases to form the kick pleat.

The Simplicity 3108 jacket is wonderful. It has a round neckline, 7/8 length kimono sleeves, buttons down the front and two decorative pocket flaps. I love the cropped length of this jacket - it sits at the perfect spot at the top of the hip. The jacket fits exceptionally well due to the shoulder and elbow darts. It is these small shaping darts that set the vintage patterns apart from the modern - it is unfortunate that most of today's patterns have so few of these useful dressmaker details.

Both the jacket and the skirt are lined in chocolate silk charmeuse, which finishes off the inside in a luxurious manner. The buttons on the jacket are gorgeous. They are vintage glass shank buttons that have a tortoise pattern. They add the perfect finishing touch to this jacket. I have included pictures of this suit in action:




















I also have a couple of questions to answer.
*Nancy K. said, "Do you end up having to do a lot of grading on these vintage patterns or do you find them in your size? I'd also like to know when you sleep, you accomplish so much I am just in awe!"
Firstly, I actually do sleep so I have to find time for sewing elsewhere :) What helps is that I don't watch much TV and I don't have kids for which to care. As well, since I am a teacher, I am usually done work each day at 2:30 (except for afternoons when I have meetings or when I am swamped with marking or lesson planning) and I have two months off in the summer. All of this adds up to free time for sewing!!
In terms of vintage pattern sizing, I don't usually buy patterns unless they are in my size (which varies depending on the era, but I find just about anything with a bust of 31.5" works for me). I tend to be too lazy to do a lot of grading up or down.


*sklong@pa.net said, "I have a question about lining a skirt. The skirt pattern doesn't call for a lining; it's a very simple nearly straight skirt - just curved a bit at the hip - with an elastic waistband. Will I use the skirt pattern to make a lining for it? will the lining be attached just under the waist band? Or Should I treat the lining and skirt as one and make the casing for the elastic with the lining there also?"
You definitely can use the skirt pattern to make a lining for a straight skirt. Check out this helpful webpage (this is not for an elastic waist skirt but the principle is the same). Of course this assumes that there is a separate waistband into which the elastic is inserted.
However, if the elastic is inserted into a casing made by folding down the top of the skirt, you can handle it two different ways. If you are not worried about the waist being too bulky, construct the skirt and the lining, place them wrong sides together and turn down the top of the skirt and the lining together to form the casing for the elastic. Alternatively, remove all but 5/8" of the casing allowance from the top of the skirt and the matching lining. Sew the skirt and lining right sides together, along the top, with a 5/8" seam allowance. Turn skirt right side out and press along the top being sure that the lining does not show on the right side. Sew around the top of the skirt at 1" (if the elastic is 1") to create a casing that consists of the skirt fabric on the outside and the lining fabric on the inside. Be sure to leave a bit open to insert elastic and then finish sewing. I hope this makes sense.


Up next, the coat...