Cylon Night

I made this fabulous snowflake* for Angie.  Because nothing says 'holiday spirit' like six murderous robots.

* I wish I could take credit for this awesome idea, but I have to tip my hat to Pixels Review.

The Slippery Sloper

A few days ago, I received the following question and I am just now getting a chance to answer it.

Shelley wrote, "When I read about how to sew clothing, all the books talk about making a muslin, usually starting with a dressmaking pattern. The problem is (well, the first, there are probably many) that my books tend to be rather vintage and the commercial patterns they suggest seem to be out of print. Is there a commercial dressmaking pattern you could recommend for a novice sewer for this purpose? I’ve dreamed of making my own clothes for most of my life and it’s time to either get on with it or give up the dream. I’ll be very grateful for any advice you might give."

It's sounds like you are referring to a "sloper" or "block" or "fitting shell" rather than a muslin.  Back in the day, all dressmaking books suggest making a sloper and many modern seamstresses still swear by them.  The basic concept of a sloper is that you create a snug fitting dress (usually, but you can create a pants sloper as well) that has a bodice, with sleeves and straight skirt joined at the waist.  For example, below are the dress (V1004) and pants (V1003) fitting shell patterns offered by Vogue.  This Burda Style link also provides other sloper resources.

 

The goal with the sloper is to create a garment that fits you like a comfortable glove.  Using your personal measurements, you want to make changes to the sloper to ensure that all your unique fitting issues are addressed.  For instance, I would adjust for my small shoulders, yet relatively broad back, as well as my small waist, tiny bust and large hips.  For work clothing, I would ensure that my bodice and sleeves allowed me to write comfortably on a chalk board (I'm a teacher) and that my skirt would have enough sitting ease.

Once you have a well-fitting sloper, then you can use it to check the fit of commercial patterns you may wish to make.  This is done by laying your personal sloper pattern pieces over the commercial pattern pieces to look for any changes to be made.  For instance, I would check that the shoulder length and armscyce are the correct dimensions and adjust accordingly. Or you can use the sloper to draft patterns of your own. This is done by adding design elements to your basic sloper.  For example, you could slash your sloper to add interesting seaming details or colour blocking effects.  Check out this sloper series, as well as the link above, for more details.

All that said, I do not use a sloper.  I have been sewing long enough that I can just flat pattern measure vital areas (shoulders, bust, waist, hips, etc.) and add or remove tissue to accommodate my particular measurements.  If I am planning on using a very expensive fabric or if the pattern is very intricate, I will create a "muslin" or "toile."  A muslin is a quick and dirty mock up of the desired garment in a fabric of similar weight and drape to the final fashion fabric.  All major pattern pieces are used (bodice, sleeves, collars, skirts, etc.), as well as any closures (zipper, buttons, etc.), but facings are not.  This allows me to determine if the major fitting issues are addressed before cutting into the good fabric.  Often, if the garment is to be done in a forgiving knit/stretch woven, I will throw caution to the wind and just go for it, after a few quick flat pattern measurements. 

I am also a fan of using TNT ("tried and true" or "tested and true", depending on who you ask) patterns.  These are patterns that I have made over and over, tweaking the fit on each successive garment until I have the perfectly fitted pattern.  I have several TNTs - pants, tops, skirts, dresses, jackets and coats - and by simply using an array of fabrics, I can get many different looks.  As well, I will add or delete design details to arrive at a completely different look.

So, I guess the moral of the story is that you have to decide which method suits you the best - sloper or muslin or just diving straight in. 

HZC readers, how 'bout it - do you have any additional info or insights for Shelley?

Better than Lithium

I have not been the usual productive me the last few months.  I haven't felt like sewing or blogging or doing much of anything.  Besides being sick constantly with a string of colds and a bout with the flu, I have been lazy and a tiny bit depressed.  Not clinically depressed or anything, just not my normal, bouncing-off-walls, energy-to-burn, spazztastic self.

Well, I want to throw off the shackles of apathy and get back down to business.  In order to kick start my return to the land of the stitcher, I have finished my cowl neck dress (pictures will follow very soon) and I have started work on a coat for Hartley.

And I have purchased fabric. 

What better way to salve a broken creative soul than to slather it with the tools of the trade?  Nothing gets my juices flowing more than some new fabric and Fabric Mart was very obliging by placing their wares on sale.  So, I imbibed.

I mean, really, how could I resist these gorgeous Armani suiting fabrics?

Or these fabulous boucles, which will transform into pretty jackets?

Or these luscious bamboo knits that can be whipped up into amazing new tops?

 

Or these Cache ponte knits that are so excellent for some comfy winter dresses?

Making Progress

I am forging forward with my B5523 project.  I found a gorgeous coral wool knit in my stash that I purchased from Fabric Mart a while back and I have cut out all my pattern pieces.  Today, I will be sitting in front on my machines to put it all together.  If all goes well, I can see making up this dress in a few different fabrics, as I really need to flesh out my professional winter wardrobe.  Things are looking a bit sad in the HZC closet these days.

Also, from the "I-didn't-want-to-tell-you-all-because-I'd-rather-increase-my-odds-of-winning-but-that-would-be-wrong-so-I-guess-I'll-tell-you-all-anyhow" file, Denise, of The Blue Gardenia blog fame, is having an amazing giveaway.  So, I suppose you could go check it out.  I'll be right here, trying to work some voodoo magic to ensure that I win.  And not you.          :)

Lacquer Lundi

Straight to the pretties:


 Essie - Overnight
- purchased at Rachelle's (beauty salon) for $0.50 CDN

Overnight is a lovely traditional red.  If it was the 50s and I wanted a "bad girl" reputation, I'd likely be sporting something along the lines of Overnight.  These days, it fits the bill for the gal that wants a nice solid red in her collection.

Overnight applied nicely, due to the fab formula and great pigmentation. I needed two coats for perfect opacity.  It wore well, with only tip wear after three days.






 Sally Hansen Hard as Nails Xtreme Wear - Gunmetal
- purchased at Rexall (chain drug store) for $2.95 CDN

I love the greys that have been around for the last two seasons - you get the look of a dark nail without the goth references that can accompany the black polishes.  Although I do love a moody black polish, I'm not always looking to go quite so dark, so grey is a nice compromise.  Gunmetal is a gorgeous medium metallic grey that glows on the nail.

Gunmetal applied exceptionally well (as have all of my Xtreme Wears), requiring two coats for full coverage.  It also wore well, with tip wear after two days.





Icing - Roger That
- purchased at Icing for $3.75 CDN


Goodness knows, I love a teal/tuquoise polish, so I could not resist picking up Roger That the last time I was in an Icing store.  The colour is a gorgeous sea colour that makes me long for warm summer days (to all my Aussie and Kiwi friends, I am so jealous of you all right now).

Roger That applied well, but I needed three coats for full opacity.  I am not a fan of applying more than two coats, so this was a bit of a disappointment.  I was also left unhappy by the wear - I had tip wear and major chips after two days.  Colour me unimpressed at the polish formulation.

Finally, Some Inspiration...

...or at least I hope so.

It will come as no surprise to those of you desperately hoping for some new sewing porn to grace the pages of HZC that my mojo has gone missing for quite a while.  When Simon died in July, it was as if all my desire to create beautiful garments vapourized into the ether.  I guess grief can do that - it wrings you out and leaves an empty husk.  Even with the introduction of joy back into our family through the adoption of dear sweet Hartley, I haven't felt the pull of my sewing room in months.  I have done a few things here and there - a couple pairs of pants and some skirts - but, the need to get involved in big projects has escaped me.

So, I have decided to try making a knit dress.  A simple knit dress.  A simple knit dress, that won't require much fitting and that I should be able to complete in a couple of days.  I'm hoping that this simple knit dress will be the impetus to get my arse back in gear.

I have settled upon Butterick 5523, a fab looking double knit dress, with a cool cowl collar (alliteration, anyone?) and an empire waistline.  This dress will be a nice addition to my cold weather professional wardrobe.

Now, I just need to rifle through the stash and see what I have in the way of double knit.  I know there is some chocolate brown in there that I scored from Fabric Mart a couple of years back. I guess I'll see what's what when I look.

They Call me Karl

I have expressed my love for Cleaner's Supply in the past.  The prices are exceptional, the customer service is impeccable and the shipping is inexpensive (free, if you buy enough) and fast.  I normally buy all my thread from Cleaner's Supply - they have an excellent selection of Guterman and Maxi-Lock.  I have also purchased some other supplies, like chalk, snaps, a sleeve board and machine needles.

Recently, I received a $10 off a $100+ purchase coupon.  Not one to waste such an opportunity, I decided to buy myself something that I have wanted forever.  I have salivated over the  Fairgate Fashion Designer's Carry-All Kit for years.  It contains:

"Everything you need in a handsome briefcase. Kit includes tools for designing, measuring and finishing: Designer's L-square, Half size L-square, Curve Stick, Variform curve, Variform long curve, Straight edge, Cuff width marking rule, and pattern-making guide."

I cannot wait to get my hands on this fab kit!  I'm pretty sure that by simply owning these tools, I can officially be called a Fashion Designer.  Am I right?  So, effective immediately, I will dye my hair white, don leather driving gloves and dark sunglasses.  I will begin to speak in odd riddles and confound all those around me.  I will singlehandedly revitalize the house of Chanel (except I will rename it, "Shanel").  It's gonna be awesome!

Lacquer Lundi

Straight to the pretties:

Zoya - Roxy
- purchased at spaboutique.ca for $9.00 CDN

Roxy is a luscious berry shade that is jam-packed with glitter.  It is exactly the type of deep, rich colour with which I always fall in love.  Toss in some sparkle and I am smitten.

Roxy applied nicely, requiring two coats for opacity.  It wore well, with only tip wear after two days.







Zoya - Pru
- purchased at spaboutique.ca for $9.00 CDN

Pru is such an interesting colour.  It is a pretty purply-pink base with a gold shimmer that makes this polish come to life.  I don't normally go for pinks, but Pru is an exception.

Pru applied nicely, although I needed three coats for coverage and even then, it was a bit see-through.  It wore well, with only tip wear after two days.






 Rimmel Lycra Wear 10 + Minerals - Milk Chocolate
- purchased at Shoppers for $3.79 CDN

Milk Chocolate is a light beige creme that I wanted to like more than I do.  Unfortunately, the colour of this polish is so close to the colour of my skin that it virtually disappears on my nails.  I'm not sure what is worse - the crappy colour or the fact that my skin tone closely matches the crappy colour.

Milk Chocolate (despite it's chromatic deficiencies) did apply nicely, covering perfectly in two coats.  It also wore well, with minor tip wear after two days.