Go With the Flow Dress - Button Loops

I have started putting together the Go With the Flow dress. The first goal I set for myself was to complete the bodice, which has a row of 10 buttons and button loops at centre back to act as closures for the dress. You can see them in the line drawing of the back view of the pattern:









I want to show you how I install individual button loops. I'm not sure how others do it, but I have found this to be the easiest way.

• Cut a long rectangular piece of fabric on the bias.

• Stitch the long sides, right sides together (do not stitch ends closed) to form a long, skinny tube. Turn right side out.

• Pull the resulting tube taut and iron out any stretch.

• Cut the long tube into several pieces of the required length.

• Mark the loop positions on the right side of the fabric. In the picture below, the loop positions are marked with black dots. The loops will fit in between each pair of dots.
  

• Butting the end of a tube piece up to the edge of the fabric, pin one end of the tube at each of the upper dot positions. Repeat until all pieces are pinned to fabric.
  

• Stitch just in from the seam line (at 1/2" for a 5/8" seam) to secure all the pieces.

• Bend the tubes around and secure the other end at the lower dot position. Repeat until all tubes are bent and secured properly. Stitch along the same line to secure all the pieces.
  

• Stitch the lining and the fashion fabric right sides together. Turn right side out and press. Viola! Perfect loops just waiting for buttons.

I am almost finished the entire halter top bodice. I just need to tweak the fit for my small bust. The small bust adjustment needed for this pattern is different than the one I have posted before, so I will elaborate in my next post.

All Aboard!

I'm about to embark on a sewing adventure and I'd like to invite you all along for the ride. I have two major projects on the go and I will be documenting the progress on these projects here.

Project One - Go With the Flow Dress
I will be using a rayon chiffon purchased from Timmel Fabrics to create view A of Vogue 2962, a re-release of a vintage pattern. Below you can see a long shot and a close up of the fabric, as well as the pattern. The rayon fabric is sheer so it will be lined with a deep raisin fabric. I have already cut out the fashion fabric and the lining and let me tell you, the rayon chiffon is a bear to work with. Can you say slippy, squiggly, flowy...ugh! But it's all cut out and assembly has begun. I'll update as I go along.























Project Two: CONTROL Suit
I am using a brown/green tweed for the jacket and a luscious dark sage green wool for the skirt. Both fabrics are from Timmel Fabrics. The pattern for this suit is 100% authentic vintage, Butterick 4557. Below are the two fabrics, as well as the pattern cover picture. The jacket will be the real challenge here, as I am going to tailor it as much as possible. There will be bound buttonholes, functional flapped pockets, pad-stitching, sew-in interfacings, lining, etc...the whole nine yards. I love this pattern - it reminds of something Agent 99 would have worn on Get Smart (hence the name of this project). I have cut out the fashion fabric and the lining. I have also put in tailor tacks for the important matching points on the jacket. As I construct the suit, I will post about it.

New Look 6637 & Loes Hinse 5209 (Princess Tank)

Pattern: New Look 6637 & Loes Hinse 5209 (Princess Tank)

Size: NL6637 comes in sizes 8 to 18 - I used size 8. LH5209 comes in sizes XXS to XXL - I used XXS.




























Fabric: Rust linen/cotton blend from Fabricland & White Needle Out Interlock from Wazoodle.










Project Photo:














Comments: I have had this New Look pattern for a very long time (probably since the late 80s/early 90s). While browsing around the New Look website, I noticed that it had been reissued and it inspired me to get my copy out and finally use it! I cannot say enough wonderful things about this wrap skirt. It fits me perfectly right out of the package. The only variance from the instructions was that I used flat felled seams throughout to keep the inside of the skirt neater.

I have made the LH Princess tank before and I really like its lines. The first time I made it, however, I had to do a fair bit of alteration. I normally use the XXS in Loes' patterns, so of course my first attempt at this pattern was with the XXS. It was HUGE. To remedy this, I folded out an inch on both the front and back pattern pieces and overlapped an inch on both the side pieces. Now, it fits beautifully.

Conclusion: I really like how this outfit turned out - I feels like I'm ready for a quick game of tennis whenever I put it on! I will definitely be making both of these garments again.

_____________________

Q&A: I was asked a couple of questions in the comments recently and I wanted to take a bit of time to answer them.

• Becky asked, "I'm also curious as to how you did the elastic in the neckline, since I'm constantly having issues with necklines being too low. Especially on knits."

I don't really have any magic formula as to how I add the elastic. In most cases, if the neckline finish is simply turned and stitched down, I just thread elastic through the small "casing" that is created by the neckline hem. I tend to knot the elastic at one end of the casing and also at the other end, leaving a 3 inch piece hanging from either end, on the inside of the garment. This way I can tightened or loosen the elastic thread in the future if needed. I use the elastic thread that is normally used for shirring.

• Carolyn asked, "So when do you start back to school sewing!?"

Well, I don't really have a set date on which I start my fall/winter sewing. I have actually completed a few pieces already, interspersed with my summer sewing. I have, however, been madly working on a couple of fall/winter SWAP storyboards. Both SWAPs contain a full phase one (11 garments), phase two (9 garments) & phase three (7 garments). One of the SWAPs has a green/brown/orange/cream theme and the other is a teal/brown/caramel/cream colourway. I'm not sure yet which one will take precedence in the sewing line-up. When I decide, I'll share the storyboard.

Butterick 4745 & Simplicity 3837

Pattern: Butterick 4745 & Simplicity 3837.



























Size: B4745 comes in sizes 6 to 20 - I made size 8. S3837 comes in sizes 6 to 22 - I made size 6.

Fabric: Brown/teal floral cotton voile from Fabricland & marine blue cotton interlock from Wazoodle.











Project Photo:














Comments: I have made this skirt before and I love it as much this time as the last.

This top, however, is a new pattern for me and I made view B. I'm not sure I'm completely sold on this top. There is a criss-cross front with a criss-cross overlay on top. This makes for a lot of fabric in the bodice. When attaching the upper bodice to the midriff, there are places where 7 layers of fabric are being sewn together - it is a bulky! In the photo, the top looks a bit wonky. This is due to the fix I often use on V-necks that I feel are too low. I have strung elastic thread through the entire V-neckline to help tighten it up and hold it closer to the body. On the hanger, the elastic gathers up oddly, but on the body, it relaxes and pulls the fabric to the chest, eliminating any embarrassing gaping. If I was to remake this top, I would alter the front pattern piece so the elastic is not required.

Conclusion: Although I am a bit disappointed in the top, I am still overall happy with this outfit. I love the skirt fabric and pattern so much that it makes up for the so-so top.

Butterick 4745 & BWOF 119 (11/05)

Pattern: Butterick 4745 & BWOF119 (11/05)



























Size: B4745 comes in sizes 6 to 20 - I made size 8. BWOF119 comes in sizes 36 to 42 - I made size 36.

Fabric: Orange/brown/yellow cotton & orange wicking fabric, both from Wazoodle.













Project Photo:



















Comments: I love this skirt. It is very simple to make and it is flattering. It is just two pieces - front and back. Rather than a waistband, the waist is finished with bias tape, so it is smooth and comfortable to wear. I can whip up one of these skirts (from pattern layout to hemming) in about an hour, so it makes for a quick, easy summer skirt. I have plans for some winter skirts with this pattern as well - I see them in faux suede and lightweight tweed.

This is another T-shirt from my TNT pattern. I have at least 8 shirts made from this pattern now and I'm positive I will make at least 8 more in the future.

Conclusion: Another fast addition to my summer wardrobe. What I like best about this outfit is that it is cool for the summer months, but because of the warm colours, it will work throughout autumn as well.

Vogue 8134 & BWOF119 (11/05)

Pattern: Vogue 8134 (skirt) & BWOF119 (11/05).

Size: V8134 comes in sizes 6 to 20 - I made size 6. BWOF119 comes in sizes 36 to 42 - I made size 36.



























Fabric: Red/yellow paisley cotton blend from Wal Mart (left over from this dress) & banana yellow cotton interlock from Wazoodle.









Project Photo:



















Comments: I have made this skirt before and I really like it. It is quick to sew, easy to wear and really cute. I have also made this top before - it is my favourite T-shirt pattern. I love the raglan sleeves and the subtle shaping at the waist. I have never made up this T-shirt and not been happy with it.

Conclusion: Two previously made patterns + cool, comfortable fabric = easy summer dressing!

Sewing Brocade

In the comments to my previous post, I was asked about special tips on sewing brocade. I really don't have any magical tidbits. I used an 80/12 universal needle (as this was a heavy brocade) with plain old Gutterman thread and a straight stitch length of 2.0 mm. The only words of caution I can offer are: make a muslin of your garment first. You want to know that all the fitting tweaks have been made prior to sewing up your brocade. Taking in seams is okay, taking out seams is not. This fabric has a long memory - once a needle has pierced it, this fabric will always show the holes. If the project is particularly special to you, you may want to even confine pinning to the seam allowance. Also, be sure that you use burr-free pins and needles, as this fabric can snag fairly easily.

Writing this made me think about a few of the gorgeous brocades at Thai Silks. I prefer the silk/rayon brocades to any of the yucky polyester ones. So, for your viewing pleasure, here are some of my major picks:


I really want one of these fabrics to make the pattern below. I'm really partial to the second one at the top. C'mon Thai Silks, it's time to put that one on sale!