18 February 2008

Ready, Set, SWAP - Part 5

The green/cream herringbone wool button front top is complete. Actually, it has been for a while now, I have just been too busy to write about it lately. Unfortunately, I don't have any more "during construction" pictures - I simply got too engrossed in the garment's construction to take photos.

However, here is the inside low-down:
* The garment was fully underlined with Textured Weft (front, back and sleeves).
* The hems were interfaced with a medium weight non-stretch fusible interfacing.
* Sleeve headers were made of bias cut tie interfacing.
* The front facing and undercollar was interfaced with hair canvas.
* The front sports three bound buttonholes and vintage buttons.
* The lining was completely sewn in by hand.

Now, on to the pictures:

The front of the jacket with the buttons done up.

I am quite pleased that I decided to go back and recut the fronts after doing a proper SBA - this reduced the size of both the bust and waist darts and the front fits beautifully now.

The back of the jacket is nicely shaped through the use of waist and neck darts. I absolutely adore patterns that have neck darts. I tend to find these patterns just fit me better. The neck dart fits the collar to my small shoulders but releases at the upper shoulder blade to fit my broader back. I find most patterns without the neck darts are horribly uncomfortable while I'm teaching, because I can't reach and write on the board easily - I definitely need the extra space across the shoulder blades.

The upper collar is an extension of the front facing - this gives the collar a nice roll around the neck when it is worn.

The sleeves are 3/4 length and have an elbow dart to conform nicely to the shape of the arm.

One of the bound buttonholes and the vintage button. The reverse side of the button was finished by hand stitching the facing in an oval around the buttonhole opening. This gives the back a clean, neat finish.

The lining was inserted totally by hand. Although it is time consuming to do the lining this way, I feel it gives me greater control over the placement.

I was playing around with some of the decorative stitches on my sewing machine and decided to use one of them to "sexy-up" the lining pleat at the neck.

Alright, so this completes piece number two for SWAP 2008. I am in the process of working on pieces three, four and five. The muslins have been perfected and I have started work on the "real" fabric. I hope to have an update on my progress over the next few days.

Last, but not least - lookie what I got in the mail today. How much do I love this pattern?? Look at that assymmetric front!! Could it be any more Jackie Kennedy?? Look at that cool attachable scarf!! I am in L.O.V.E.


kasizzle said...

Beautiful jacket! Can't wait to see the rest of the SWAP!

Summerset said...

Beautifully done! I almost bought that pattern, too - I love the scarf detail.

Vicki said...

Fab work with the jacket. Love the lining.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

Shannon - I'm loving the new jacket! There is a lot of work in that jacket...bound buttonholes, hand stitched lining which really speaks to the era! Love the new McCalls pattern too...gosh I wish I could find some of these in my size!

Johanna Lu said...

I am very impressed with your vintage swap, all your attention to details is just awesome! I love the wonderful detailing and lining, it's the "hidden" effort that really makes suit stand out.

Dana said...

The jacket is beautiful. Those bound buttonholes are fabulous.

Tany said...

The jacket looks stunning! It's perfect, and I like your choice for the buttons and lining! Well done!

Rose said...

Wow! Great jacket with details that shows quality even in photos!

Nancy Winningham said...

your jacket looks great. I bought that same charmeuse for the same purpose, but have not used it yet. I wish FMF would put some more of that on sale!

LauraLo said...

Beautiful jacket and such a lovely lining! I adore it

Linda L said...

Love the jacket lining. Great job on bound buttonholes. Love, love, love, the pattern.