24 September 2007

Butterick 4865

I have begun work on my fall/winter SWAP wardrobe. But, before I show you the first completed piece. I wanted to answer a few questions from the comments to the SWAP storyboard post.

How long do you think this will take you? If I really buckle down and stay focused, I figure I could get all three phases done by Christmas. Now, I'm not saying I will be done in three months, as I may be side tracked by other flights of sewing fancy. :)

...what does LH stand for?
Sorry, for being confusing. I short form all my pattern companies: LH - Loes Hinse, J - Jalie, B - Butterick, S - Simplicity, NL - New Look, V - Vogue, M - McCall's, KS - Kwik Sew, BWOF - Burda World of Fashion magazine. I think that covers all the ones I use on a regular basis.

...your closet must be the size of a small country! Well...ahem...I do have a few hundred pieces of clothing. Okay, I will be the first one to admit that I don't need any more clothing, but I don't need a lot of things. I like making clothes, I like wearing clothes, I'm not ruining the family finances by buying fabric/notions and sewing is my stress relief and hobby. So, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! Now, if you really want to talk scary, you should see my shoe closet!

Pattern: Butterick 4865

: B4865 comes in sizes XS (4-6) to XL (20 - 22). I used size XS and it is plenty roomy.

Fabric: Embroidered brown velveteen from Fabricland was used for the entire coat, except the under collar, which was made of a brown tropical weight herringbone wool from Textile Studio.

Project Photo
Comments: One day when browsing in my local fabric store, I spotted this fabric and it positively screamed at me to be taken home. Never one to question the motives of talking fabric, I snatched up 2 metres and went about my business. At home, I rifled through my pattern stash looking for a jacket pattern - the jacket pattern. I wanted something with very little seaming as I didn't want to cut up this lovely fabric and minimize the beauty of the embroidery. That is how I settled on Butterick 4865. I had used this pattern before (albeit, a different view) and I liked the results. I am always a sucker for a raglan sleeved pattern, as I love the lines.

This pattern is well drafted and went together quickly and easily. Originally, I had made view D and found it too cropped - view B, the version I made this time, is the perfect length. The only "alteration" I made to the pattern was to not alter the sleeves. Let me explain. Normally, I have to shorten sleeves by approximately 2 inches. This time I choose to leave the sleeves long and turn under an extra long hem - now, I am able to wear the sleeves bracelet length or turn up a cuff to shorten the sleeve to 3/4 length. I like a longer sleeve on a jacket, when wearing it outside, for warmth. However, inside I prefer a shorter length so the sleeve stays out of my way (I hate dragging my sleeves through the chalk when writing on the board).

The only tweak I made to this pattern was to cut the under collar out of an amazing tropical weight herringbone wool that I bought at Textile Studios. I had made a pair of pants from this fabric and I loved the fabric so much I couldn't bear to throw away the few small scraps I had left over. Good thing as the scraps made the perfect under collar. The velveteen is quite heavy and an upper and lower collar cut from this fabric would have been too stiff. Cutting the under collar from the thin wool, not only adds a design element, but it also reduces bulk.

I have to admit I was surprised by the size of the collar - it is quite large. Although, these large, dramatic collars seem to be all the rage right now. I think, because I am a small person, I am keenly aware of the collar's size, so I will have to wear the jacket a bit to "desensitize" myself.

I chose some shiny brass buttons as the finishing touch.

Conclusion: I really like this jacket, although the size of the collar will take a bit of getting used to before I am completely comfortable with it. I think this jacket is a great start to my wardrobe plan. Now, I just need to decide between a top or a skirt as my next project.


Lisette M said...

Beautiful jacket. I have this pattern waiting. Love your plan for fall sewing.

Summerset said...

Lovely! I completely understand about the collar size! So what will you wear with it?

Valerie Sorensen said...

OK, I'm jealous. You obviously have a much better Fabricland than I do.

Your jacket is beautiful. I love your SWAP. Good Luck with it.

Cherie said...

Your considerations for the best use of this fabric were terrific - the collar may be a bit larger, but because of the overall design, it does blend in with the background, so to speak, hope that makes you feel better! But very nice. Can't wait to see the coordinates with it!

Vicki said...

One completed already! Fantastic. I am sure you sew so fast just to keep us entertained! the jacket looks perfect for work and for play.

And can I come and vist your wardrobe? I hope you have a spare room just for all your clothes and shoes....sigh.....

Sewcreate said...

Good Lord how do you get it done so fast!!! You are the Chem teacher, I am the Chem student. Who's job is harder. I thought yours was but I am beginning to wonder..........Where do you fit the time between grading papers?

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Mmmmmm am I the only one who noticed the woman said she has hundreds of pieces of clothing...oh be still my beating heart! *LOL* My goal in life is never to repeat an outfit in any one season...I am not quite there yet but it is what I aspire too! And I totally understand what you mean about the fabric and sewing...you are right! Just who are we hurting!!! :)

Oh, the jacket is really kewl too!

Sigrid said...

What a lovely jacket, great to alter the fabric for the undercollar. And I love your swap plans.
You must be spending all of your free time sewing to get all this completed before Christmas. Like many others, I 'll be checking regularly to see how it evolves.

Tany said...

What a fabulous fabric! The model choice is just right for it and the final outcome is outstanding!
I relate to you when you say you don't need any more clothes but still you keep sewing more and more... Sewing and wearing the garments I make are amongst my greatest pleasures in life. I also have a passion for shoes and bags/purses... :). My problem is the lack of SPACE, lol

LauraLo said...

Amazing jacket! You made me buy that pattern....

Marty said...

Lovely jacket. If I had storage space, I would have lots of clothing too. However, I'm limited to a very small space. You've done well on your SWAP. I like your color choices as they are very flattering for your skin tone. Will keep up with your progress.
Happy Stitching!

Eme said...

Um, yeah, that's actually why I DON'T sew more/faster - I don't have enough storage space...yeah! hahaha I so wish I sewed as fast as you do (and with such awesome results!)! Oh - I have a SWAP question for you - how many of your pattern choices are TNTs and how many are new (rough percentage) and also, can you go into your thinking behind each phase (why you chose certain patterns/combos, etc)? Love your blog!