Simplicity 3323

Pattern: Simplicity 3323 ~ From the envelope: "Dress has slightly extended shoulders, bateau neckline, back zipper closing and contrasting bias and bow trim. Version 1 features a full gathered skirt."

Size: Sub Teen Size 12 s (bust 31)

Fabric:
Muslin: car print cotton polyester blend
Garment: embroidered cotton w/ a border print
(both fabrics are from Fabricland)











Project Photo:
Comments: I was looking for a simple sun dress to showcase a beautiful border print I found at the local chain fabric store. When working with a border print, I prefer to not have to cut up the border at all, so I wanted a pattern with a dirndl skirt (basically a rectangle that is gathered at the top). When I found this pattern in my vintage stash, I knew it was the one.

I wanted to first make a wearable muslin of the dress before cutting into the good stuff. I'm glad I did. The dress straight from the package was sized for a person with a very short torso - it may be due to the sub-teen sizing on this pattern, although I didn't encounter this problem with other sub-teen patterns I've used in the past. In the end, I added 1.5" to the bodice length. When I make this dress again, I will add another 0.5", to bring the total up to 2" added length.

Flat pattern measuring also suggested that I needed to reduce the size of the two front and two back darts (by 0.5" in each case, to add a total of 2") to accommodate for the larger size of my waist. In the wearable muslin, this worked out beautifully, since the garment sat up above my waist, at the bottom of my ribcage. However, when I lengthened the bodice, I forgot to take into account that my actual waist is smaller than the measurement on my body 2" higher up, so the final dress was roomy in the waist. I removed the skirt and resewed the darts, effectively removing the 2" I had added. I'm pretty good at tweaking patterns to fit me, but every once and a while, I still goof up - ah well, to err is human!

The only other alteration I did was to remove some fabric from the front armscyce (0.25" at the centre, tapering to nothing at the shoulder and underarm seams), as the muslin pulled in this area when I would reach forward. In the next version, I will remove another 0.25" and it should be perfect.

The skirt is a single layer of fabric (too bulky otherwise). However, the bodice was fully underlined with cotton batiste.

Conclusion: The muslin is wearable, although it seems a bit young what with the crazy car print (check it out - it says "vroom!") and the elevated waistline, so it will likely be reserved for weekend wear. The border print version is definitely a winner and will become a regular in my warm weather wardrobe. I actually have another border print fabric that was to become a skirt, but I may end up making this dress again with that fabric.

SWAP Combos - Part 3

In my last two posts, I posted pictures of all the combos possible with the suiting pieces from my SWAP. Today, I want to finish up my SWAP photos with a few pictures of the dresses and the coat. I realize these aren't really combos, but I really love these pieces and I don't want to hurt their feelings by leaving them out of the fun!

Chocolate brown wool crepe dress (M7888)



















Yellow silk dupioni dress (S7990)



















Beige wool crepe coat (V5630)



















That about wraps up the SWAP 2008 photo shoot. I am really pleased with how it all turned out. Now, over the next few weeks, I will be planning out my spring and summer wardrobe - I can't wait!

SWAP Combos - Part 2

In my last post, I showed several of the combinations that could be made with my SWAP suiting separates. Today, I want to show you some more. However, I first want to say a big, fat thank-you to everyone that has stopped by and left such wonderful comments. Since I don't have any "real life" sewing compatriots, I really cherish all my cyber buddies (both old friends and new acquaintances).

Without further ado, here are all the possibilities with the multi-coloured tweed top:

Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 -wardrobe pattern)



















Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + green herringbone skirt (B4105)



















Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050)



















Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + terracotta skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)





















And here are all the possibilities with the terracotta wool top:

Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + terracotta skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)



















Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050)



















Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + green herringbone skirt (B4105)



















Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 -wardrobe pattern)




















Tomorrow: A few views of the dresses and the coat.

My Chanel-ish Suit

When I first saw this fabric on the Sawyer Brook website, it basically reached through the monitor and demanded that I own it. The name of this fabric was Cucurbits and to learn more about this name, visit Barb's Fabric Blog (the blog of the owner of Sawyer Brook).

When designing my SWAP, this fabric was chosen to be the central focus and all the other fabrics were picked based on colours found therein. In real life, the colours in this fabric are far more vivid and rich - it is one of the most beautiful wools with which I have ever worked.

Obviously, I needed an amazing pattern (or two) to showcase this exquisite fabric - something simple and classic. I decided to create a Chanel-style suit using Simplicity 3108 for the jacket and Vogue 5521 (which is my SWAP wardrobe pattern) for a slim skirt.















The Vogue 5521 slim skirt was very straightforward to sew - two darts in front, two darts in back, side zipper and a waistband. The only interesting thing about this skirt is the kick pleat. The back of the skirt is cut on a fold and a straight line of stitching, parallel to the centre back fold, creates a large pleat in the centre back which extends down to the hem. This pleat is pressed to one side and stitched down 8 inches above the hem. Below this, the pleat releases to form the kick pleat.

The Simplicity 3108 jacket is wonderful. It has a round neckline, 7/8 length kimono sleeves, buttons down the front and two decorative pocket flaps. I love the cropped length of this jacket - it sits at the perfect spot at the top of the hip. The jacket fits exceptionally well due to the shoulder and elbow darts. It is these small shaping darts that set the vintage patterns apart from the modern - it is unfortunate that most of today's patterns have so few of these useful dressmaker details.

Both the jacket and the skirt are lined in chocolate silk charmeuse, which finishes off the inside in a luxurious manner. The buttons on the jacket are gorgeous. They are vintage glass shank buttons that have a tortoise pattern. They add the perfect finishing touch to this jacket. I have included pictures of this suit in action:




















I also have a couple of questions to answer.
*Nancy K. said, "Do you end up having to do a lot of grading on these vintage patterns or do you find them in your size? I'd also like to know when you sleep, you accomplish so much I am just in awe!"
Firstly, I actually do sleep so I have to find time for sewing elsewhere :) What helps is that I don't watch much TV and I don't have kids for which to care. As well, since I am a teacher, I am usually done work each day at 2:30 (except for afternoons when I have meetings or when I am swamped with marking or lesson planning) and I have two months off in the summer. All of this adds up to free time for sewing!!
In terms of vintage pattern sizing, I don't usually buy patterns unless they are in my size (which varies depending on the era, but I find just about anything with a bust of 31.5" works for me). I tend to be too lazy to do a lot of grading up or down.


*sklong@pa.net said, "I have a question about lining a skirt. The skirt pattern doesn't call for a lining; it's a very simple nearly straight skirt - just curved a bit at the hip - with an elastic waistband. Will I use the skirt pattern to make a lining for it? will the lining be attached just under the waist band? Or Should I treat the lining and skirt as one and make the casing for the elastic with the lining there also?"
You definitely can use the skirt pattern to make a lining for a straight skirt. Check out this helpful webpage (this is not for an elastic waist skirt but the principle is the same). Of course this assumes that there is a separate waistband into which the elastic is inserted.
However, if the elastic is inserted into a casing made by folding down the top of the skirt, you can handle it two different ways. If you are not worried about the waist being too bulky, construct the skirt and the lining, place them wrong sides together and turn down the top of the skirt and the lining together to form the casing for the elastic. Alternatively, remove all but 5/8" of the casing allowance from the top of the skirt and the matching lining. Sew the skirt and lining right sides together, along the top, with a 5/8" seam allowance. Turn skirt right side out and press along the top being sure that the lining does not show on the right side. Sew around the top of the skirt at 1" (if the elastic is 1") to create a casing that consists of the skirt fabric on the outside and the lining fabric on the inside. Be sure to leave a bit open to insert elastic and then finish sewing. I hope this makes sense.


Up next, the coat...

The Universe Has Spoken

Melody, of Fashionista Fabrics, is having a sale on every fabric on her website - including all the ones I have been drooling over for weeks! So, I took it as a sign from the universe that I was supposed to partake of this sale. Really, who am I to question the universe?

Here are my picks, along with the pattern that will be used:

Silk Pique Panel Print - Butterick 4856














Silk Pique Poppies - Vogue 2960














Floral Silk Shantung - Vogue 1043














German Print - Simplicity 5036 - the full skirted dress
















PVC Coated Linen - Vogue 8480














Warm Toned Wool Challis - Vogue 2786

They Call Me Mellow Yellow - Part Two

Okay, I have been meaning to create a second post about the JK inspired yellow dress for ages now. But, as most of you know, the world has been spinning just a little too fast for my liking lately. Thankfully, things are starting to get back on track now. My Mom has moved into the respite section of a retirement home (and plans to stay for 2-3 weeks to further recuperate), so my life is beginning to be less hectic. Although, as everyone knows, Moms can keep ya runnin' no matter what!!

Okay, back to the task at hand. As I said, I finished this dress up a while back and I do believe it is my favourite piece in my SWAP to date. Below, you can see pictures of the outside and inside of the dress.

This dress is the most luscious shade of deep, sunny yellow. It has been hanging on the armoire in my bedroom and every time I walk by it, it gives me pure joy. I cannot look at this dress without smiling!

Not only do I love the colour, but I love the fit. The split neckline, fitted cummerbund and full skirt are very flattering on me. I highly recommend this style for the small busted, pear shaped woman - it highlights all the good and disguises all the bad. What more can a gal ask for?

As you can see on the inside photo, the entire dress was underlined in light peach cotton batiste. This masks the translucent quality of the dupioni, as well as keeping the garment cool and breathable. Most importantly, the batiste allows for the invisible tacking down of facings and hems, which keeps the outside of the garment pristine and free of stitch marks.

All in all, I adore this dress. It makes me happy, happy, happy! I know that I can't be the only one that has clothing that has the ability to change my mood. So, fess up folks, do you have a garment that makes you warm and fuzzy just thinking about it? An article of clothing that makes your day every time you wear it? Do you have an outfit that makes you feel like you can take on the world? Do you have a dress that brings back pleasant memories when you see it in your closet? Tell me about your happy clothes.

ETA: Lisette M asked why I decided to forgo a lining in this dress. The easy answer is that I want to wear it to work this spring/summer. Although my school is supposed to be air conditioned, it doesn't always live up to this supposition. Considering I am usually hot on a regular day, I fry in my classroom on a hot day. So, the less fabric on me, the better - I find the cotton batiste to be cool and comfortable, so I left it at that.

They Call Me Mellow Yellow - Part 1

Thank you to everyone that has left such wonderful comments - I truly appreciate when people take time out of their day for me. I have had a bunch of comments asking when I would model my latest garments. I will definitely be posting pictures of me wearing my SWAP wardrobe, but I am going to wait until all the pieces are done and ready to be submitted to Julie of Timmel Fabrics (the SWAP sponsor). So, stay tuned, it won't be too long now! :)

Also, Marguerite writes, "Are the dress photos from the White House Years book or the Cassini book?"
The dress photos are from "Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years", although I also own "A Thousand Days of Magic". As an aside, for anyone that is a Jacqueline Kennedy fan, I cannot recommend both books highly enough. Each book contains amazing photographs and historical information about JK, her clothing and her personality. Great reads!


The next garment up in my SWAP 2008 was inspired by a yellow silk ziberline dress worn by Jacqueline Kennedy in Jaipur, India on March 19, 1962. This dress, as well as several other pieces taken on a tour of India and Pakistan, were designed by Gustave Tassell. Interestingly, JK wore this dress, as well as pumps and white gloves, to indulge in an elephant ride. One year earlier, the Queen rode the same elephant wearing a safari suit. I guess Jackie favoured fashion over practicality - that's my kind of gal!!

JK typically favoured slim or A-line skirts. Occasionally she went for the fuller skirted look as seen in this dress. Being a fan of fuller skirts myself, it was a no-brainer for me to knock off this particular garment. Originally, I had planned on making this dress in a mustard wool crepe. I tend to only wear wool crepe in the cooler months and since I really wanted to stay with the sleeveless design, I figured I would have to wear a sweater over the dress for warmth. However, I didn't want to ruin the lines of the dress by slapping a cardigan on over top of it. So, I decided to take a cue from the original and a hunt for yellow silk began. I looked high and low on the internet to find appropriate fabric (at a reasonable price) and basically came up empty. Then one day, while browsing in a local chain fabric store, I spotted the perfect shade of mustard yellow silk dupioni - sometimes what you want most is right under your nose! I snatched up 2 m and skipped merrily all the way home.

Since dupioni is a light weight fabric and in this case, fairly translucent, I underlined the bodice and the skirt with a very pale peach cotton batiste. Batiste is one of my favourite underlinings for crisp, thin silks. It adds body to the garment, it ensures modesty and all the facings and hem can be tacked to the underlining, leaving the front of the garment completely unmarred by stitches.

The pattern for this dress is based on Simplicity 7990 (which, incidentally I used unaltered for last year's SWAP as well). This pattern has the same basic silhouette that I desired and only needed a few tweaks to more closely resemble the inspiration garment. You can see a comparison of the old and new pattern pieces below.

To increase the fullness of the skirt, I slashed the front and back pieces in two places and added 1.25" to each opening. To create the front seam, I simply added a 5/8" seam allowance to the front where it was originally to be placed on a fold.

The midriff cummerbund band was perfect as is, so it was left alone, but the tie was discarded.

The front bodice required the most work. I traced out two front bodice pieces and taped them together, on top of a another piece of paper, in the crossed over manner displayed on the pattern cover. Then I drew in a wide, rounded neckline. I drew a vertical line from the centre of the neckline to the centre of the lower bodice. Finally, a 5/8" seam allowance was added to this newly drawn line. Lastly, a front facing was drafted for this new front bodice piece. See the photo on the left for a before and after comparison.

The back bodice required alteration as well, so that the back neckline would match the front. This, of course, necessitated the redrafting of the back neck facing. After checking that all the old and new pieces fit together properly, the tweaked pattern was ready to go. Next time, I will show you the completed garment.



Lastly, I am the proud owner of a new camera. I decided on a Canon Rebel XTi (which can be seen at left). It is winging its way to me as we speak. I can't wait to get my hands on this baby and give it a whirl. My husband (who is really into photography) has a much sexier version of this camera and the nifty part is that his lenses can be used with my new camera. I will now have the ability to get super crazy close-up shots, super duper far away shots and everything in between. Wahoo!!

SWAP 2008

This year, the Timmel SWAP 2008, has had me betwixted and bewildered. Here it is, 20 days since the start date of the competition and only now have I finally settled on a plan of action. I have yet to put needle to fabric. Up 'til now, I just could not get my SWAPping mojo working - every time I thought I had an idea, it fell through. Either the fabrics didn't complement each other or my wardrobe pattern wasn't working. I think however, I have finally figured it all out.

I have been wanting to add some suits to my working wardrobe and creating a SWAP that revolved around interchangeable suiting pieces seemed like a workable idea for SWAP. I wanted each suit to stand on its own, as well as having the flexibility of treating each garment like a coordinating separate. I knew from the beginning that I wanted to use Jacqueline Kennedy (JK) as my inspiration for this wardrobe. Her style is the quintessence of elegance, sophistication and good taste. When I think of classic, timeless clothing, JK always comes to mind. So, I have working for over month trying to get all the pieces to come together on a storyboard. The fabrics had to work together interchangeably and the style and lines of each garment had to complement all the other garments. Last, but certainly not least, the wardrobe had to take inspiration from JK, but work on my body (which is nothing like JK's).

Please note that all garment inspiration photos were taken from the book, Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years. If you like JK and/or 1960s fashion, this book is phenomenal. I first learned of its existence from Carolyn and boy, am I glad I did! Although the book is a bit pricey, it is well worth it in my opinion. The garment photos are exquisite and the accompanying historical info (date and location where garment was worn, designer and fabric) is interesting and useful for the seamstress looking to knock off JK's wardrobe. I have other books on JK, but this one is by far my favourite. The book is broken into several chapters, the most interesting of which are the ones focusing on her influence on 60s fashion. My favourite chapters are "Campaign", "Inauguration", "White House Style" and "Travel". Each of these chapters features several outfits worn by JK during the whirlwind of supporting her husband in his bid for the presidency and the ensuing time in the White House. It is amazing how fresh and timeless most of her choices still appear today. That is the mark of true style.

My storyboard includes a fabric swatch (accompanied by fabric type and vendor), the pattern and the JK inspiration garment(s).


I think I will be sticking with this plan, but if any amazing fabric or pattern jumps into my lap, I may pull a switcheroo - I guess we'll just have to see how it goes! I'm not exactly sure which piece I'll start with first. I am leaning toward the coat, but I want to do the sable collar, like in the original. However, I'm having a heck of a time tracking down good looking faux fur (I don't want real fur - it gives me the heebie-jeebies). If any one has any good sources for faux fur, do tell please.

Have Ray Gun, Will Travel

In the comments section of this post, nancy k. asked what I would wear with my new fuchsia skirt. miss twist suggested, "I would match the fuchsia with the black Kwik Sew cowl neck and black knee-high boots. Or maybe black knee-high boots, a closely fitted black top, and a ray gun. Oh--and a jaunty silver scarf around your neck."

Well, I don't have a silver scarf, but I tried to give you what you wanted, nonetheless:



















And, just so you don't think I'm a total nut job:

Well, it's off to work. I sure hope my students appreciate what a fashion plate I am!!

Simplicity 3678

Pattern: Simplicity 3678 (view C)














Size: S3678 comes in sizes 8 to 24 - I made size 8.

Fabric: Brown print rayon lycra knit from Lucy's Fabrics.









Project Photo:
Comments: I really loved the scoopneck version of this dress when I first saw this pattern. So, I rooted around in my stash to find a knit to use. I finally settled on this soft, drapey rayon/lycra knit I got from Lucy's Fabric a while back.

This dress went together easily. I was able to cut out and sew up the dress in one day. Sew on Sunday afternoon, wear on Monday morning. Talk about instant gratification!

This dress is comfortable, yet stylish. I plan on making several more versions to augment my wardrobe. I love a good dress - pop it on in the morning and go!

Conclusion: The day I wore this dress to work, I got some compliments from my students - I guess I'm still remotely hip and happening!!

Kwik Sew 2856 & Simplicity 4599

Pattern: Kwik Sew 2856 (view A) & Simplicity 4599 (view D - skirt)





























Size: KS2856 comes in sizes XS to XL - I used size XS. S4599 comes in sizes 8 to 24 - I used size 8.

Fabric: Lightweight black sweaterknit from Wazoodle & Black/brown houndstooth wool from Timmel Fabrics.














Project Photo:
















Comments: I have made both of these patterns a few times before and they have become "go-to" patterns for when I need a quick, but flattering outfit at a moment's notice.

The unfortunate part of this outfit is the top - the fabric I used was a bargain and like many bargains, it has let me down. I am a staunch believer that my time is too valuable to use cheap fabric, but I let down my guard on this one. The price was amazing, the fabric feels wonderful and it sewed up like a dream. The problem is in the laundering - this fabric attracts every fuzzy in a 50 kilometer radius and it then proceeds to become one with the fuzzies. This melding of fabric and fuzzy necessitates the time consuming ritual of hand picking all the fuzz balls off the top to make it presentable. The jury is still out on how many times I will be willing to do this before I get so frustrated that I consider setting this top on fire. I'll keep you posted.

The skirt, on the other hand, is a dream come true. Boy oh boy, do I wish I had bought more of this fabric when it was available. It is the perfect, lightweight, smooth wool - it is absolutely delicious! I love the fabric and I really love the resulting skirt.

Conclusion: Despite the shortcomings of the top fabric, I really like this outfit. It s simple, smart and sophisticated.

Simplicity 3887

First, a few questions and comments:

• Many commenters asked the same questions as Summerset, "When you're done with this wardrobe, are you going to post pictures of you in the outfits/pieces?"

Yup, my plan is to sew a few more pieces and then start showing some of the possible combinations. In all honesty, I haven't had a chance to model the clothes because I have been too inspired to sew lately. As many of you know, when the desire to sew, sew, sew hits, then you must sew, sew, sew!

• Carolyn writes, "Everyone I think she is paying a bunch of sewing elves and stashing them in a back shed on her property! Cause these things are coming out just a little too quickly from the Kenmore to me...y'know what I mean!"

Jeez, Carolyn, I can't get anything past you, can I? And just for clarification - I don't pay them, so keep your voice down. If they hear all this talk of wages, the little suckers will unionize and then I'll be up a creek!


Pattern: Simplicity 3887














Size: S3887 comes in sizes 8 to 24 - I made size 8.

Fabric: Teal and caramel paisley from Fabricland.













Project Photo:
Comments: This is item number five completed in my fall/winter SWAP.

I absolutely adore this fabric, as I have a special place in my heart for paisley prints. So, when I saw it at my local fabric store, I scooped up two metres without having a plan for it. I had used S3887 before and really liked the results. So, I decided to use it again, but this time I made the long sleeved version. As was my previous experience with this pattern, everything went together smoothly to produce a cute, trendy top.

Conclusion: I really like the match of fabric and pattern in this garment (although the photo doesn't really do either one justice). This will be a wonderful addition to my work wardrobe.

Simplicity 3786

Pattern: Simplicity 3786 (view A)













Size: S3786 comes in sizes 6 to 22 - I used size 6 for the bodice and waist and size 8 for the hip.

Fabric: Yellow embroidered cotton from Timmel Fabrics.

Project Photo:
Comments: When I saw this fabric on the Timmel site, I knew I wanted to turn it into a tunic. I liked the simple lines of this pattern and the rest, as they say, is history.

Sometimes it's nice to have a roomy, unfitted tunic top in the wardrobe. I think we all have those days when we are feeling less than svelte and the thought of a tight top is enough to make a grown woman cry. This is my solution - a cute top, in a fresh colour that doesn't cling or bind. Worn over a pair of capris with a pair of kicky sandals and you have the perfect, comfortable outfit.

The pattern was well drafted and it went together easily enough. I like that although the style is simple, the lines of the top are a bit more interesting than just a plain "big shirt" style of tunic.

Conclusion: Although this top makes me look a bit rectangular, I don't care because it is comfortable and sometimes comfort wins out over vanity!


P.S. Thank you to all of you that took the time to leave words of congratulations on my last post. There sure a bunch of nice people out there in cyber space.

Simplicity 3874

Pattern: Simplicity 3874 (view B & C)













Size: S3874 comes in sizes 8 to 24. I used size 8 for the jacket. For the dress, I used size 8 for the bodice and waist and expanded out to size 12 for the hip (I could have used size 10 here, but I wanted extra hip ease since some days I sit a lot at work).

Fabric: For the jacket, I used a navy polyester blend twill from Wal Mart. For the dress, I used a blue box print polyester silky from Fabricland.












Project Photo:
Comments: As soon as I saw this pattern, I knew I had to make it. I love anything with raglan sleeves, so this was a no brainer. I have some other fabric that is perfect for this style, but I wanted to check the fit first, so I used some el cheapo fabric that has been clogging up my stash for a while now. I am not a huge fan of polyester, but after working with these two fabrics, I have to say that they are much nicer than their prices would suggest.

Both the dress and jacket went together easily, as this pattern was drafted very nicely. The only difficult part is getting the jacket collar and front "facings" attached nicely. But with careful marking and sewing, it isn't too tough.

The only changes I will be making for next time are the following:

• I will eliminate the back zipper, as the dress slips on quite easily over my head.
  
• The dress is a little tight across the back, through the shoulder blades. I seem to have this problem a lot of the time. The neckline and midriff areas fit perfectly, but the back pulls across the shoulder blades. This is a real problem for me at work, as I am always writing on the chalkboard and using my arms out in front of me. I looked up a solution in one of my fitting books that I will be trying in the future. I sure hope it works because this pulling across the back is quite annoying.
  
• The jacket is cute. However, I find it to be a bit boxy and it tends to obscure the fact that I have a waist. Next time, I will make it shorter or add more shaping to the side seams.
  

Conclusion: I really like the dress on me - it is a real winner! The jacket is good, but not my absolute favourite. I will be making this outfit again, with the tweaks to the dress and some changes to the jacket. Here are the fabrics I am contemplating for the next incarnation (dress and jacket, respectively).

Simplicity 3622

Pattern: Simplicity 3622 (view B)













Size: S3622 comes in sizes 4 to 20 - I made a size 6. I probably could have used the size 4 as there is a lot of ease in this pattern.

Fabric: Black knit terry from Wazoodle.









Project Photo:

Comments: I wanted a comfortable, yet stylish dress for hanging out at home or running errands in and when I saw this pattern, I knew I had found the perfect one.

This dress went together quite easily. The most interesting part of this dress is the modesty panel. Instead of a triangle of fabric simply sewn to the neckline, which can be heavy and droop unattractively. The panel is actually sewn into the side and empire waist seams and is suspended by ribbons from the shoulder seams. This eliminates any bulkiness at the neckline. I also like that it doubles the fabric in the bodice region, so I can go braless if I choose.

The only other thing to note is that I did not sew the sleeves exactly as shown for view B. Instead of the three lines of elastic, I chose to only place elastic at the bottom. I think this is a better line on me, as the extra puffiness at the shoulder helps to balance my hips.

Conclusion: I will certainly make this dress again. However, next time, I will use a fabric more suited to wearing to work. This is definitely the way to get dress quickly in the morning and know that you'll look great all day, while remaining comfortable. I picture it both of the fabrics shown below. The first is a rayon/Lycra knit from Fabric Mart and the second is a poly matte jersey from Lucy's Fabrics.

Uh oh!

Well, I had a post all set to go about the bodice of my Go With the Flow Dress, but I can't upload any photos because my husband's computer crashed. We have two computers (his & hers!) and they are networked together - when his crashes, I'm out of luck trying to grab photos stored on his computer.

Instead, I thought I'd post a couple of garments that have caught my eye lately - one reasonably priced, the other way out of my price range. I really want to knock these babies off, so I have included the patterns I would use for just that purpose. All garment photos/descriptions are from Nordstrom.com:

Maestro Ruffle Swing Jacket
" Long ribbon secures an adorable silhouette, styled with a ruffle-trimmed neckline, three-quarter sleeves and a cropped cut." (polyester/wool) - $88

I plan to recreate this look using Vogue 8123 or Simplicity 3631. Both of these jacket patterns have the raglan sleeves, the straight boxy lines and the round neckline required to pull off this look. The ruffle at the neckline of the inspiration piece can be created using strips of fabric simply gathered and sewn to the neckline with a large zigzag or overcast stitch. The raw edges of the ruffles can be finished with the zigzag/overcast as well (I would prefer a serged edge, but I don't own a serger, so I will make due with what my sewing machine has to offer). Notice that the sleeves have a small band attached at the cuff - this too can easily be recreated.

There is no back view of the jacket available, however, in the description, it says there is an inverted back pleat. If I wish to keep this detail, I may use a narrowed down version of Vogue 8146 instead.

As far as fabric goes, there is a really nice brown tweed at my local fabric store just crying out to be this jacket. I already have the brown velvet ribbon for the neckline closure, although the actual closure is a hidden hook and eye.


Burberry London Single Breasted Wool & Cashmere Coat
"Button front. Mandarin collar. Three-quarter sleeves with belt and button detail. Tie belt with buckle. Two front pockets." (wool/cashmere) - $1695

The first pattern I thought of is Simplicity 3631 (see above) because of the last amazing issue of Sew Stylish magazine. The coat created from this pattern on p. 74 has a very similar vibe. Although the Simplicity coat has the bell shaped belted sleeve, it is lacking in many other areas. To get the fitted, collared, belted, set in sleeve, single breasted look of the inspiration piece, I would instead start with Vogue 7978. View D, with a pared down collar work quite nicely. The belted bell sleeve and a belt/carriers could also be easily added. The only problem with V7978 is the lack of fullness in the lower portion of the coat. This could be remedied by slashing and spreading the pattern pieces to get more fullness.

If I'm going to all this trouble to make this coat, I don't want to cheap out on fabric. I would try to find a wool/cashmere blend like the original. However, I don't want a light grey coat, I want something with more impact, so I would probably look for red.

Butterick 4745 & Simplicity 3837

Pattern: Butterick 4745 & Simplicity 3837.