Simplicity 3323

Pattern: Simplicity 3323 ~ From the envelope: "Dress has slightly extended shoulders, bateau neckline, back zipper closing and contrasting bias and bow trim. Version 1 features a full gathered skirt."

Size: Sub Teen Size 12 s (bust 31)

Fabric:
Muslin: car print cotton polyester blend
Garment: embroidered cotton w/ a border print
(both fabrics are from Fabricland)











Project Photo:
Comments: I was looking for a simple sun dress to showcase a beautiful border print I found at the local chain fabric store. When working with a border print, I prefer to not have to cut up the border at all, so I wanted a pattern with a dirndl skirt (basically a rectangle that is gathered at the top). When I found this pattern in my vintage stash, I knew it was the one.

I wanted to first make a wearable muslin of the dress before cutting into the good stuff. I'm glad I did. The dress straight from the package was sized for a person with a very short torso - it may be due to the sub-teen sizing on this pattern, although I didn't encounter this problem with other sub-teen patterns I've used in the past. In the end, I added 1.5" to the bodice length. When I make this dress again, I will add another 0.5", to bring the total up to 2" added length.

Flat pattern measuring also suggested that I needed to reduce the size of the two front and two back darts (by 0.5" in each case, to add a total of 2") to accommodate for the larger size of my waist. In the wearable muslin, this worked out beautifully, since the garment sat up above my waist, at the bottom of my ribcage. However, when I lengthened the bodice, I forgot to take into account that my actual waist is smaller than the measurement on my body 2" higher up, so the final dress was roomy in the waist. I removed the skirt and resewed the darts, effectively removing the 2" I had added. I'm pretty good at tweaking patterns to fit me, but every once and a while, I still goof up - ah well, to err is human!

The only other alteration I did was to remove some fabric from the front armscyce (0.25" at the centre, tapering to nothing at the shoulder and underarm seams), as the muslin pulled in this area when I would reach forward. In the next version, I will remove another 0.25" and it should be perfect.

The skirt is a single layer of fabric (too bulky otherwise). However, the bodice was fully underlined with cotton batiste.

Conclusion: The muslin is wearable, although it seems a bit young what with the crazy car print (check it out - it says "vroom!") and the elevated waistline, so it will likely be reserved for weekend wear. The border print version is definitely a winner and will become a regular in my warm weather wardrobe. I actually have another border print fabric that was to become a skirt, but I may end up making this dress again with that fabric.

I Love the Smell of Rayon in the Morning

I just noticed that Lucy's Fabrics has some gorgeous rayon lycra knits. Since I am incapable of saying no to beautiful rayon knits, I purchased the following:

































And, since it seemed wrong to only order a few paltry cuts of knit fabric, I rounded out my package with a brown double knit, a dark brown ottoman knit and a medium brown ottoman knit.

As much as everyone raves about the new poly/lycra knits that are out these days, I just can't get myself to love them too. I have found a few (very few) that are acceptable. However, for the most part, I find them hot and sticky in the summer, static clingy in the winter and usually downright icky feeling. Give me natural, breathable fabrics with a supple hand and now, I'm in heaven. Three cheers for rayon!

Happy Canada Day

To all my fellow Canadians, here's wishing you a happy and safe Canada Day. Whether you're taking in the sun at the beach, paddling on a peaceful lake or barbequing up a storm in your own backyard, I hope you're enjoying this day with family and friends.

Unfortunately, I'm alone today, as my husband had yesterday off (his work tries to place holidays to give them long weekends, which is nice). So, I plan to make good use of my time by sewing. I'm almost finished a cute little tie-front cardigan in a gorgeous deep papaya coloured linen.

In other sewing related news...
I have been on an insane orange kick lately. I cannot get enough of this juicy, citrusy, delicious colour! So, when I stumbled upon Vogue Fabrics latest offerings for summer, I was rendered incapable of resisting the following luscious fabrics:

Chapeaux Blooms - Stretch Cotton Sateen & Chapeaux Tangerine - Blouseweight Linen












Chapeaux Window Panes - Rayon Blend Suiting & Hannah Jardin - Poly Georgette












Oaks Sensation - Variegated Crocheted Novelty & Oaks Delight - Floral Jacquard Knit












Oaks Mango - Poly/Cotton/Lycra Interlock Knit & Oaks Stretch - Cotton/Lycra Stretch Twill












And, get this...drum roll please...I even have a plan for these babies. Check it out:

Also, in the interest of full disclosure, I must admit that I picked up some more fabulous summer fabric at a local store yesterday. I haven't had a chance to photograph them yet, so I don't have any pictures. But, suffice it to say, they helped to sate my appetite for orange as well.

Freedom, Sweet Freedom!

Whew, I made it - just barely. I am officially off for summer vacation for the next 9.5 weeks. This was a very tough year, so I really need this break to decompress.

Things are looking up though.

Firstly, my hip/back is once again in perfect working order - so I can get back to doing stupid things like lifting objects that are much too heavy for me :) Thank you to everyone that offered advice and words of sympathy - they were much appreciated.

Secondly, I am now the proud owner of even more super delicious Japanese pattern books. I think I may have stumbled upon a new addiction (at this point it is yet undetermined where this addiction ranks among all my other addictions, like fabric, vintage patterns, shoes, chocolate and bag piping - okay, maybe not the last one). Here are my new lovelies - behold the splendour:

Sewing Lesson by Machiko Kayaki















Skirt a la carte by Machiko Kayaki















Utsukushi Silhouette no Skirt Angkor Shitakunaru My's Size no Kawaii Smart Style 27 by Watanabe Sato
Okay, this last one doesn't have a shred of English on the cover, so I cut and pasted the title given on the yesasia.com site (the retailer from whom I purchased the books). I have no idea what on Earth that title is supposed to mean. Honestly though I don't care, because inside this book are the most lovely skirts and that's all I need to know.










These books are like the other books I have purchased recently. They all come with full sized pattern sheets that must be traced because there are several pattern pieces, in several sizes on each sheet (think BWOF). After browsing through the newest acquisitions, I have a million ideas buzzing through my brain. Now, it's just a matter of listening for which one buzzes the loudest to determine what's up next on the sewing docket.

Pain in the Back

So, I finally start thinking seriously about sewing again and wouldn't you know it, the universe steps in to put me in my place. Damn you, universe!! (picture me shaking my fist at the sky in righteous indignation)

Yesterday, whilst moving a wall fountain, I did a number on my lower back - if truth be told, it's actually my left hip. As I lifted the fountain, I felt a twinge and then a huge blossom of warm pain. I literally yelped because it hurt so much. I managed to set down the fountain and hobble my way into the house to inform my husband that I had managed to inflict damage upon myself. I think I pinched a nerve something fierce and all day yesterday I could barely sit down, stand, climb the stairs or breathe without pain shooting up my back and down my left leg. Today, I am much better, but I still have some residual creaks and groans - although I do think I am well on my way to recovery.

So, all I have to say is "what the _ _ _ _?" (insert whatever four letter word tickles your fancy). I just turned 38 - how on Earth did I get so old, so fast, that my body is already falling to bits? Man alive, I figured I would have at least 10 more years before stuff like this happened. Blech!

I think my major problem is that I have gained some weight (8 lbs) over the last 6 months and it's not sitting well. To say that I am not happy about my gain in weight is an understatement. Eight pounds on me is a 7% increase in my body mass - not a good thing. So, I have decided that starting today, I am going to start treating myself better - better eating habits, more exercise and a more all around healthful existence. I guess all it took was a pain in the @ss to get me motivated!

To help me in my journey, I have started using Diet Power again - I love this program (I am in no way affiliated with Diet Power, I am just a happy customer - it was my major motivator during my 40 lb weight loss a few years back). This program allows you to track food intake and exercise. If you choose a weight loss program, it estimates your caloric intake on a daily basis and adjusts to keep you headed toward your goal. For me, keeping a close eye on my daily calorie budget is a must if I wish to be successful.

So, for anyone else interested in a more healthy lifestyle, feel free to join me in my quest. I know I can do this - it's just a matter of motivation and keeping an eye on my goal.

It's So Close I Can Taste It!

Okay, so I have been a bad, bad blogger. My posting has been spotty at best lately - but, this time of year always kicks my butt. Finishing out the school year is hectic to say the least - what with the classes to finish, the exams to create and mark, the final grades to calculate and turn in, the classroom to clean, the graduation to attend, the preparations for next September to make...well, you get the idea. So, sewing has been on the back burner (which sucks in ways I can't describe lest I lose my PG rating). I have one more week of this necessary horror until I am free for 9.5 weeks, yep, that's right, 9.5 weeks. I always day dream about quitting work and sewing all day, but then where would I wear all the fabulous clothes I'd make? It's quite the conundrum.

I have a preliminary plan for my summer sewing all laid out and I present it here for your viewing pleasure. It is based on a teal/lime/aqua/yellow colour scheme. I was so inspired by Audrey and the beautiful colours she has chosen to sew lately (if you haven't checked out her work, you do not know what you're missing - she is an exceptional seamstress). Unfortunately, I can't wear pastels as well as she can, so for the most part, I went with more saturated and intense colours. All year long, I wear autumn colours (brown, rust, mustard, green, terracotta), so in the summer it's nice to sew up a bunch of brights that aren't my norm.

I also have a coral/orange plan in the works too, although it's not as fleshed out yet. You'll notice that I am rather spotty with the pattern choices at this point - hopefully, over the next while I'll figure out what those fabrics are destined to become.

Now, all I need is some student-free days and some motivation. I expect both will be in vast supply on June 26th at 2:25 p.m. I just pray to all that is good, that I make it 'til then without killing anyone!

Japanamania

I loved the first Japanese pattern book that I got so much, that I bought a few others. Following Angie's advice, I checked out yesasia.com and before you could say "smokin' credit card", I had put three books in my cart. My new loot consists of the following:

Simple Chic by Machiko Kayaki















Pindot Polkadot Coindot Etc. by Machiko Kayaki















Home Couture by Machiko Kayaki















I simply cannot get enough of these books (and if truth be told, I have another three books on order - I'll show them to you when they get here). I could flip through them over and over and never get tired. There is something so appealing about the photography. Of course, I love the clothing, too. The lines are simple and clean, the fabrics are classic and sophisticated - it's like Machiko Kayaki peered into my head and created exactly the wardrobe that I want.

Even if I never make up a single garment, the inspiration to be found in these books is fabulous! However, I definitely do have plans to dive into some of these patterns as soon as I'm off on vacation.

Before I sign off, I wanted to say a big thank-you to everyone for their advice and suggestions on figuring out how to use these patterns. After studying the first book more closely, I have come to realize that reading Japanese is really unnecessary. Between the excellent diagrams and my sewing experience, I can't imagine I will run into any problems.

Tag Along

Mardel tagged me. I decided to play along. I wish I was more interesting. Oh well, here goes...

What was I doing 10 years ago?
I had just finished graduate school and defended my MSc thesis (Title: Heteroditopic Receptors - all 134 pages of super geeky chemistry goodness written by little ole me. By training I am an organometallic chemist - here's a little tidbit to give you a taste of my research.). At the same time, I was finishing up my MEd degree as well. My husband and I just bought our house and were in the midst of some home improvements. You might say I liked to keep busy!

What are 5 things on my to-do list today?
1. Make up a gas law test for my grade eleven classes - check.
2. Make up an electrochemistry quiz for my grade 12 class - check.
3. Continue working on the exam for my grade 12 class - check.
4. Mark the gas law assignments from my grade 11 classes - in progress.
5. Go on a walk with my husband and Simon - hopefully later if it doesn't rain.

Snacks I enjoy.
chocolate
chocolate
chocolate
vegetables and onion dip
chocolate

Things I would do if I were a billionaire.
1. Buy 1000 acres.
2. Build a custom designed home on the property.
3. Adopt 10 dogs.
4. Fence in 5 acres in which the dogs could safely roam.
5. Give huge dollops of cash to any organization that cares for animals.

Places I have lived.
LaSalle, Ontario
Windsor, Ontario - which borders on LaSalle, Ontario
LaSalle, Ontario
I am basically a barnacle - I find a place I like and I stick to it.

What types of work have I done.
Research chemist
Chemistry teacher
Yup, that's it.

6 peeps I want to know more about.
If you're reading this, I tag you.

Made in Japan

On a tip from Tany, I purchased a Japanese pattern book, Retrospective is Stylish by Yoshiko Tsukiori. I purchased it from the eBay seller, pomadour24 (and I was very happy with this seller BTW).

There are 21 retro inspired projects in this book, created through tweaks of a few simple patterns. The outfits include skirts, dresses, vests, jackets and blouses. Each garment is found on a full scaled pattern sheet included with the book.

The patterns come in four sizes, with bust, waist and hip measurements listed in brackets: S (79 cm, 59 cm, 86 cm), M (83cm, 64cm, 90cm), L (88cm, 68cm, 94cm), XL (93cm, 74cm, 98cm). All patterns are drafted for a person that is 160 cm tall. To say that I am pleased with these measurements is an understatement - I am a M bust and waist and a L/XL hip and the height is perfect. It's not often that I find patterns drafted for a smaller person. Many pattern companies seem to forget that there are women of smaller stature out there - New Look, Silhouette, and Marfy are just a few of the companies that routinely start their sizing at a point that is too large for me. This is one of the reasons I use so many vintage patterns - the sizing is more up my alley. I guess women came in smaller sizes back in the day!

The only problem is that everything is in Japanese and unlike Spanish or French, it will be impossible to use the internet for translations (my keyboard doesn't have Japanese symbols on it). Thankfully, the patterns are all fairly simple, so I should be able to muddle my way through. If worse comes to worse, I can always ask at school to see if any of my kids can read Japanese (another one of the joys of being at a school with many cultures).

I am really looking forward to using this book and if all goes well, I may pick up a few more Japanese pattern books - there are some other really cool looking ones out there!

ETA: I just found this page, full of pictures of the projects in this book.

The Great Coat Sew Along

Marji (kind soul that she is) has put together a sew along for several seamstresses wishing to create a winter coat. A blog has been established to which all participants may post.

The Sew Along has the following time line:
May - Gather materials
June - muslin for fit and style
July - begin cutting/mounting/interfacing
mid-July - pockets and buttonholes
August - finish construction of shell, sleeves
mid to late August - construct lining
Sept - lining into coat
Goal - finish by end of September

At first I wasn't going to participate, but I enjoy the feeling of community that surrounds an event such as this one. Also, the last two winters I have been schlepping around in a down jacket. Although this jacket is warm on cold winter days, it is rather less than stylish (especially over work and formal clothes), so I would like to add to my wardrobe of coats.

Like Marji, I would like to sew up three coats: a long coat, a short coat and a fun coat. Since I have the summer off (nine glorious weeks in July and August), I should have the time to complete all three coats (and even if I only manage to get one done, I'll still be ahead of the game). At this point, I am a bit unsure of which patterns I will use, but I have some ideas. I love the following vintage, re-released vintage and Burda World of Fashion patterns.


***** LONG COAT *****

Advance 9560
I adore the collar and the A-line shape. It would function quite well over pants, as well as skirts in the winter.

I have a dark brown wool that should work well with this pattern.









Vogue 4137
This coat is designed to be reversible, which would double my potential wearing opportunities. I'm not sure at this point if I prefer the version with or without the tie at the neck.

I have a gorgeous camel double faced fabric that might work quite nicely for this project.












***** SHORT COAT *****

Vogue 2884
I have loved this pattern for the longest time and it would make a gorgeous short coat. The collar and pockets are sublime.

I think it would look great in this teal wool/cashmere blend.




Vogue 1023
I love the lines of this coat, but I'm not sure I won't freeze half to death because of the open collar.

This brown mohair fabric might pair up nicely with this pattern.






***** FUN COAT *****

Burda WOF 9/2007 - 104
I will call this my "Ode to Tany" coat. I still remember the first time I saw the coat that Tany made - I was beyond smitten. I knew I had to have one of my own.

I have always wanted a funky and fabulous leopard print coat. Now, thanks to Tany for the inspiration and to Marji for the push in the right direction, I should be workin' my animal magnetism by early fall of this year. Rowr!

ETA: I have been asked where I got this fabric - check out the faux fur category at Fabric Mart.



So, I just need to decide between the two long coats and the two short coats and I should be ready to rock and roll (assuming I don't change my mind altogether and come up with some other options). Any opinions?