Hungry Zombie Couture

Simplicity 3323

2008-07-18T22:27:00.004-04:00

Pattern: Simplicity 3323 ~ From the envelope: "Dress has slightly extended shoulders, bateau neckline, back zipper closing and contrasting bias and bow trim. Version 1 features a full gathered skirt."

Size: Sub Teen Size 12 s (bust 31)

Fabric:
Muslin: car print cotton polyester blend
Garment: embroidered cotton w/ a border print
(both fabrics are from Fabricland)

Project Photo:
Comments: I was looking for a simple sun dress to showcase a beautiful border print I found at the local chain fabric store. When working with a border print, I prefer to not have to cut up the border at all, so I wanted a pattern with a dirndl skirt (basically a rectangle that is gathered at the top). When I found this pattern in my vintage stash, I knew it was the one.

I wanted to first make a wearable muslin of the dress before cutting into the good stuff. I'm glad I did. The dress straight from the package was sized for a person with a very short torso - it may be due to the sub-teen sizing on this pattern, although I didn't encounter this problem with other sub-teen patterns I've used in the past. In the end, I added 1.5" to the bodice length. When I make this dress again, I will add another 0.5", to bring the total up to 2" added length.

Flat pattern measuring also suggested that I needed to reduce the size of the two front and two back darts (by 0.5" in each case, to add a total of 2") to accommodate for the larger size of my waist. In the wearable muslin, this worked out beautifully, since the garment sat up above my waist, at the bottom of my ribcage. However, when I lengthened the bodice, I forgot to take into account that my actual waist is smaller than the measurement on my body 2" higher up, so the final dress was roomy in the waist. I removed the skirt and resewed the darts, effectively removing the 2" I had added. I'm pretty good at tweaking patterns to fit me, but every once and a while, I still goof up - ah well, to err is human!

The only other alteration I did was to remove some fabric from the front armscyce (0.25" at the centre, tapering to nothing at the shoulder and underarm seams), as the muslin pulled in this area when I would reach forward. In the next version, I will remove another 0.25" and it should be perfect.

The skirt is a single layer of fabric (too bulky otherwise). However, the bodice was fully underlined with cotton batiste.

Conclusion: The muslin is wearable, although it seems a bit young what with the crazy car print (check it out - it says "vroom!") and the elevated waistline, so it will likely be reserved for weekend wear. The border print version is definitely a winner and will become a regular in my warm weather wardrobe. I actually have another border print fabric that was to become a skirt, but I may end up making this dress again with that fabric.

I Love the Smell of Rayon in the Morning

2008-07-08T13:17:00.013-04:00

I just noticed that Lucy's Fabrics has some gorgeous rayon lycra knits. Since I am incapable of saying no to beautiful rayon knits, I purchased the following:

And, since it seemed wrong to only order a few paltry cuts of knit fabric, I rounded out my package with a brown double knit, a dark brown ottoman knit and a medium brown ottoman knit.

As much as everyone raves about the new poly/lycra knits that are out these days, I just can't get myself to love them too. I have found a few (very few) that are acceptable. However, for the most part, I find them hot and sticky in the summer, static clingy in the winter and usually downright icky feeling. Give me natural, breathable fabrics with a supple hand and now, I'm in heaven. Three cheers for rayon!

Happy Canada Day

2008-07-01T10:12:00.015-04:00

To all my fellow Canadians, here's wishing you a happy and safe Canada Day. Whether you're taking in the sun at the beach, paddling on a peaceful lake or barbequing up a storm in your own backyard, I hope you're enjoying this day with family and friends.

Unfortunately, I'm alone today, as my husband had yesterday off (his work tries to place holidays to give them long weekends, which is nice). So, I plan to make good use of my time by sewing. I'm almost finished a cute little tie-front cardigan in a gorgeous deep papaya coloured linen.

In other sewing related news...
I have been on an insane orange kick lately. I cannot get enough of this juicy, citrusy, delicious colour! So, when I stumbled upon Vogue Fabrics latest offerings for summer, I was rendered incapable of resisting the following luscious fabrics:

Chapeaux Blooms - Stretch Cotton Sateen & Chapeaux Tangerine - Blouseweight Linen

Chapeaux Window Panes - Rayon Blend Suiting & Hannah Jardin - Poly Georgette

Oaks Sensation - Variegated Crocheted Novelty & Oaks Delight - Floral Jacquard Knit

Oaks Mango - Poly/Cotton/Lycra Interlock Knit & Oaks Stretch - Cotton/Lycra Stretch Twill

And, get this...drum roll please...I even have a plan for these babies. Check it out:

Also, in the interest of full disclosure, I must admit that I picked up some more fabulous summer fabric at a local store yesterday. I haven't had a chance to photograph them yet, so I don't have any pictures. But, suffice it to say, they helped to sate my appetite for orange as well.

Freedom, Sweet Freedom!

2008-06-27T10:35:00.009-04:00

Whew, I made it - just barely. I am officially off for summer vacation for the next 9.5 weeks. This was a very tough year, so I really need this break to decompress.

Things are looking up though.

Firstly, my hip/back is once again in perfect working order - so I can get back to doing stupid things like lifting objects that are much too heavy for me :) Thank you to everyone that offered advice and words of sympathy - they were much appreciated.

Secondly, I am now the proud owner of even more super delicious Japanese pattern books. I think I may have stumbled upon a new addiction (at this point it is yet undetermined where this addiction ranks among all my other addictions, like fabric, vintage patterns, shoes, chocolate and bag piping - okay, maybe not the last one). Here are my new lovelies - behold the splendour:

Sewing Lesson by Machiko Kayaki

Skirt a la carte by Machiko Kayaki

Utsukushi Silhouette no Skirt Angkor Shitakunaru My's Size no Kawaii Smart Style 27 by Watanabe Sato
Okay, this last one doesn't have a shred of English on the cover, so I cut and pasted the title given on the yesasia.com site (the retailer from whom I purchased the books). I have no idea what on Earth that title is supposed to mean. Honestly though I don't care, because inside this book are the most lovely skirts and that's all I need to know.

These books are like the other books I have purchased recently. They all come with full sized pattern sheets that must be traced because there are several pattern pieces, in several sizes on each sheet (think BWOF). After browsing through the newest acquisitions, I have a million ideas buzzing through my brain. Now, it's just a matter of listening for which one buzzes the loudest to determine what's up next on the sewing docket.

Pain in the Back

2008-06-22T14:58:00.005-04:00

So, I finally start thinking seriously about sewing again and wouldn't you know it, the universe steps in to put me in my place. Damn you, universe!! (picture me shaking my fist at the sky in righteous indignation)

Yesterday, whilst moving a wall fountain, I did a number on my lower back - if truth be told, it's actually my left hip. As I lifted the fountain, I felt a twinge and then a huge blossom of warm pain. I literally yelped because it hurt so much. I managed to set down the fountain and hobble my way into the house to inform my husband that I had managed to inflict damage upon myself. I think I pinched a nerve something fierce and all day yesterday I could barely sit down, stand, climb the stairs or breathe without pain shooting up my back and down my left leg. Today, I am much better, but I still have some residual creaks and groans - although I do think I am well on my way to recovery.

So, all I have to say is "what the _ _ _ _?" (insert whatever four letter word tickles your fancy). I just turned 38 - how on Earth did I get so old, so fast, that my body is already falling to bits? Man alive, I figured I would have at least 10 more years before stuff like this happened. Blech!

I think my major problem is that I have gained some weight (8 lbs) over the last 6 months and it's not sitting well. To say that I am not happy about my gain in weight is an understatement. Eight pounds on me is a 7% increase in my body mass - not a good thing. So, I have decided that starting today, I am going to start treating myself better - better eating habits, more exercise and a more all around healthful existence. I guess all it took was a pain in the @ss to get me motivated!

To help me in my journey, I have started using Diet Power again - I love this program (I am in no way affiliated with Diet Power, I am just a happy customer - it was my major motivator during my 40 lb weight loss a few years back). This program allows you to track food intake and exercise. If you choose a weight loss program, it estimates your caloric intake on a daily basis and adjusts to keep you headed toward your goal. For me, keeping a close eye on my daily calorie budget is a must if I wish to be successful.

So, for anyone else interested in a more healthy lifestyle, feel free to join me in my quest. I know I can do this - it's just a matter of motivation and keeping an eye on my goal.

It's So Close I Can Taste It!

2008-06-20T13:27:00.010-04:00

Okay, so I have been a bad, bad blogger. My posting has been spotty at best lately - but, this time of year always kicks my butt. Finishing out the school year is hectic to say the least - what with the classes to finish, the exams to create and mark, the final grades to calculate and turn in, the classroom to clean, the graduation to attend, the preparations for next September to make...well, you get the idea. So, sewing has been on the back burner (which sucks in ways I can't describe lest I lose my PG rating). I have one more week of this necessary horror until I am free for 9.5 weeks, yep, that's right, 9.5 weeks. I always day dream about quitting work and sewing all day, but then where would I wear all the fabulous clothes I'd make? It's quite the conundrum.

I have a preliminary plan for my summer sewing all laid out and I present it here for your viewing pleasure. It is based on a teal/lime/aqua/yellow colour scheme. I was so inspired by Audrey and the beautiful colours she has chosen to sew lately (if you haven't checked out her work, you do not know what you're missing - she is an exceptional seamstress). Unfortunately, I can't wear pastels as well as she can, so for the most part, I went with more saturated and intense colours. All year long, I wear autumn colours (brown, rust, mustard, green, terracotta), so in the summer it's nice to sew up a bunch of brights that aren't my norm.

I also have a coral/orange plan in the works too, although it's not as fleshed out yet. You'll notice that I am rather spotty with the pattern choices at this point - hopefully, over the next while I'll figure out what those fabrics are destined to become.

Now, all I need is some student-free days and some motivation. I expect both will be in vast supply on June 26th at 2:25 p.m. I just pray to all that is good, that I make it 'til then without killing anyone!

Japanamania

2008-06-11T23:32:00.000-04:00

I loved the first Japanese pattern book that I got so much, that I bought a few others. Following Angie's advice, I checked out yesasia.com and before you could say "smokin' credit card", I had put three books in my cart. My new loot consists of the following:

Simple Chic by Machiko Kayaki

Pindot Polkadot Coindot Etc. by Machiko Kayaki

Home Couture by Machiko Kayaki

I simply cannot get enough of these books (and if truth be told, I have another three books on order - I'll show them to you when they get here). I could flip through them over and over and never get tired. There is something so appealing about the photography. Of course, I love the clothing, too. The lines are simple and clean, the fabrics are classic and sophisticated - it's like Machiko Kayaki peered into my head and created exactly the wardrobe that I want.

Even if I never make up a single garment, the inspiration to be found in these books is fabulous! However, I definitely do have plans to dive into some of these patterns as soon as I'm off on vacation.

Before I sign off, I wanted to say a big thank-you to everyone for their advice and suggestions on figuring out how to use these patterns. After studying the first book more closely, I have come to realize that reading Japanese is really unnecessary. Between the excellent diagrams and my sewing experience, I can't imagine I will run into any problems.

Tag Along

2008-06-04T18:19:00.004-04:00

Mardel tagged me. I decided to play along. I wish I was more interesting. Oh well, here goes...

What was I doing 10 years ago?
I had just finished graduate school and defended my MSc thesis (Title: Heteroditopic Receptors - all 134 pages of super geeky chemistry goodness written by little ole me. By training I am an organometallic chemist - here's a little tidbit to give you a taste of my research.). At the same time, I was finishing up my MEd degree as well. My husband and I just bought our house and were in the midst of some home improvements. You might say I liked to keep busy!

What are 5 things on my to-do list today?
1. Make up a gas law test for my grade eleven classes - check.
2. Make up an electrochemistry quiz for my grade 12 class - check.
3. Continue working on the exam for my grade 12 class - check.
4. Mark the gas law assignments from my grade 11 classes - in progress.
5. Go on a walk with my husband and Simon - hopefully later if it doesn't rain.

Snacks I enjoy.
chocolate
chocolate
chocolate
vegetables and onion dip
chocolate

Things I would do if I were a billionaire.
1. Buy 1000 acres.
2. Build a custom designed home on the property.
3. Adopt 10 dogs.
4. Fence in 5 acres in which the dogs could safely roam.
5. Give huge dollops of cash to any organization that cares for animals.

Places I have lived.
LaSalle, Ontario
Windsor, Ontario - which borders on LaSalle, Ontario
LaSalle, Ontario
I am basically a barnacle - I find a place I like and I stick to it.

What types of work have I done.
Research chemist
Chemistry teacher
Yup, that's it.

6 peeps I want to know more about.
If you're reading this, I tag you.

Made in Japan

2008-05-24T23:16:00.008-04:00

On a tip from Tany, I purchased a Japanese pattern book, Retrospective is Stylish by Yoshiko Tsukiori. I purchased it from the eBay seller, pomadour24 (and I was very happy with this seller BTW).

There are 21 retro inspired projects in this book, created through tweaks of a few simple patterns. The outfits include skirts, dresses, vests, jackets and blouses. Each garment is found on a full scaled pattern sheet included with the book.

The patterns come in four sizes, with bust, waist and hip measurements listed in brackets: S (79 cm, 59 cm, 86 cm), M (83cm, 64cm, 90cm), L (88cm, 68cm, 94cm), XL (93cm, 74cm, 98cm). All patterns are drafted for a person that is 160 cm tall. To say that I am pleased with these measurements is an understatement - I am a M bust and waist and a L/XL hip and the height is perfect. It's not often that I find patterns drafted for a smaller person. Many pattern companies seem to forget that there are women of smaller stature out there - New Look, Silhouette, and Marfy are just a few of the companies that routinely start their sizing at a point that is too large for me. This is one of the reasons I use so many vintage patterns - the sizing is more up my alley. I guess women came in smaller sizes back in the day!

The only problem is that everything is in Japanese and unlike Spanish or French, it will be impossible to use the internet for translations (my keyboard doesn't have Japanese symbols on it). Thankfully, the patterns are all fairly simple, so I should be able to muddle my way through. If worse comes to worse, I can always ask at school to see if any of my kids can read Japanese (another one of the joys of being at a school with many cultures).

I am really looking forward to using this book and if all goes well, I may pick up a few more Japanese pattern books - there are some other really cool looking ones out there!

ETA: I just found this page, full of pictures of the projects in this book.

The Great Coat Sew Along

2008-05-21T16:39:00.003-04:00

Marji (kind soul that she is) has put together a sew along for several seamstresses wishing to create a winter coat. A blog has been established to which all participants may post.

The Sew Along has the following time line:
May - Gather materials
June - muslin for fit and style
July - begin cutting/mounting/interfacing
mid-July - pockets and buttonholes
August - finish construction of shell, sleeves
mid to late August - construct lining
Sept - lining into coat
Goal - finish by end of September

At first I wasn't going to participate, but I enjoy the feeling of community that surrounds an event such as this one. Also, the last two winters I have been schlepping around in a down jacket. Although this jacket is warm on cold winter days, it is rather less than stylish (especially over work and formal clothes), so I would like to add to my wardrobe of coats.

Like Marji, I would like to sew up three coats: a long coat, a short coat and a fun coat. Since I have the summer off (nine glorious weeks in July and August), I should have the time to complete all three coats (and even if I only manage to get one done, I'll still be ahead of the game). At this point, I am a bit unsure of which patterns I will use, but I have some ideas. I love the following vintage, re-released vintage and Burda World of Fashion patterns.

***** LONG COAT *****

Advance 9560
I adore the collar and the A-line shape. It would function quite well over pants, as well as skirts in the winter.

I have a dark brown wool that should work well with this pattern.

Vogue 4137
This coat is designed to be reversible, which would double my potential wearing opportunities. I'm not sure at this point if I prefer the version with or without the tie at the neck.

I have a gorgeous camel double faced fabric that might work quite nicely for this project.

***** SHORT COAT *****

Vogue 2884
I have loved this pattern for the longest time and it would make a gorgeous short coat. The collar and pockets are sublime.

I think it would look great in this teal wool/cashmere blend.

Vogue 1023
I love the lines of this coat, but I'm not sure I won't freeze half to death because of the open collar.

This brown mohair fabric might pair up nicely with this pattern.

***** FUN COAT *****

Burda WOF 9/2007 - 104
I will call this my "Ode to Tany" coat. I still remember the first time I saw the coat that Tany made - I was beyond smitten. I knew I had to have one of my own.

I have always wanted a funky and fabulous leopard print coat. Now, thanks to Tany for the inspiration and to Marji for the push in the right direction, I should be workin' my animal magnetism by early fall of this year. Rowr!

ETA: I have been asked where I got this fabric - check out the faux fur category at Fabric Mart.

So, I just need to decide between the two long coats and the two short coats and I should be ready to rock and roll (assuming I don't change my mind altogether and come up with some other options). Any opinions?

Burda World of Fashion Organization

2008-05-18T10:05:00.015-04:00

In my last post, I described how I have been inspired to actually sew from my BWOF magazines. I mean I have issues back to 2005 and at this point, I have made up maybe 4 patterns, so I figured it was time to start using these fabulous patterns.

So, I decided to first do a little organizing. Many seamstresses photocopy the "All Styles at a Glance" pages and place them in a 3-ring binder for easy perusal. I had been doing that, but I always found myself dragging out the actual magazine each time I was curious about suggested fabrics and fabric requirements. As well, as useful as the line drawings are, I find myself far more inspired by the actual model shots - showing the garment made up and on a real person.

So, decided to undertake an organizational odyssey (sometimes us obsessive compulsive folks have to make up our own brand of fun). I went through each issue that I own and put together pages (arranged by month and year) containing model shots, line drawings, fabric suggestions and yardage for any and all patterns that struck my fancy. Burda made this all the easier for me by putting archives of the last three years on line. I have included a screen shot of the February 2008 page. Although it was time-consuming, it was really easy to do in Word (any word processing program would also work) - just cut, paste and add text boxes.

Now I can flip through these pages to determine what will make it on to my sewing list. I already have a bunch of "must-sews" and I am in the process of matching fabrics to these future residents of my clothes closet.

There are a few things I noticed during this endeavour. Firstly, some months I am in love with almost everything in the issue and other months I am really quite apathetic about the majority of offerings. Does anyone else find this to be the case with them too?

Secondly, it is amazing how often Burda repeats certain style lines. They usually spruce things up by adding different details, but on the whole there is a lot of overlap. I guess this just goes to show that Carolyn is right - when you find something that works, why reinvent the wheel? Even Burda has a whole slew of TNT patterns that they periodically revisit.

ETA: Burda Archives 2004 - 2008 - thank you Sigrid!!

Mojo, Where Art Thou?

2008-05-13T19:00:00.005-04:00

Every year, after the SWAP contest, I can't seem to get my arse in gear (as my grandma used to say) and get sewing again. I have a multitude of ideas, a megaton of fabric, a bazillion patterns...but, I can't seem to get it all working together. Lately, I think about sewing while at work, I make plans for sewing while at home, I daydream about patterns and fabric, I scan the internet for inspiration, I design wardrobes in my head, but I cannot for the life of me sit down in front of my machine and do anything useful. This lull in my sewing life has made me cranky and snarly. I hate that I'm not sewing, so why then am I not sewing?? Ah, that is the question...

I think my major problem is the change of season. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm ecstatic that the weather is warming up, that the flowers are blooming and the birds are singing. However, I looked in my closet and I am not in love with my spring and summer wardrobe. Most of it is just plain yucky. I feel like I have nothing to wear, so I feel compelled to whip up a ton of quick and easy garments. But, I have learned in the past that quick and easy usually equates to cheap and nasty. So, I am determined to only tackle projects worthy of my time and energy - classic, elegant, sophisticated garments with a certain je ne sais quoi. The problem with that scenario though, is that I'm going to be naked until this fabulous new wardrobe materializes! Upon thinking about all of this, I become overwhelmed and like any procrastinator worth her salt, I give up and eat ice cream instead.

Well, no longer. I have seen the light - I have a plan, a mission, a goal. I pulled out my back issues of Burda World of Fashion and snagged all the spring/summer issues (March - July). I went through the last three years worth and compiled a list of all the patterns I love, along with model shots, line drawings, fabric suggestions and requirements. I have begun matching pattern to fabric and soon I should have a working list of projects. Wish me luck!

Book 'Em

2008-05-06T07:22:00.005-04:00

Nancy (nanflan) of SewWest (I love that blog title - it tickles me every time I say it in my head) tagged me with a literary meme.

Here's the deal:
1. Pick up the nearest book.
2. Open to page 123
3. Find the fifth sentence.
4. Post the next three sentences.
5. Tag five people, and acknowledge who tagged you.

Okie, dokey, you're all gonna love this...the closest book? Chemistry, the Central Science. Yes, I am a huge dork!

The bicarbonate or carbonate salt is added until the fizzing due to the formation of carbon dioxide gas stops. Sometimes sodium bicarbonate is used as an antacid to soothe an upset stomach. In that case, the hydrogen carbonate ion reacts with stomach acid to form carbon dioxide gas.

Now, let's see...I tag Carolyn, Tany, Summerset (another science geek!), Angie and Alexandra.

SWAP Results

2008-05-05T18:44:00.003-04:00

Here are the results of SWAP 2008. I am struck by the variety of locales represented in this list - SWAP is bringing together nations. It's like the U.N. of sewing!

First Place - Laura P. in Bucarest, Romania

Second Place - Shannon M. in LaSalle, Ontario, Canada

Third Place - Maria G. in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Fourth Place -Johanna L. in Goteberg, Sweden

Fifth Place - Heather D. in Wellington, New Zealand

I was flabbergasted that I took second place. Seeing as today is my birthday, I can't imagine a better present!!

I want to extend a congratulations to everyone that was involved with SWAP 2008 - this was a most successful year. Most of all, I want to thank Julie, of Timmel Fabrics, for sponsoring this event. Over the last few years, she has changed how I approach my sewing and I am indebted to her.

Now, if I can shake the nasty cold I have right now, I will be diving into warm weather sewing over the next few weeks. I have so many ideas...I better get crackin'.

SWAP Pics are Up!!

2008-04-25T15:55:00.003-04:00

Julie has posted the SWAP pictures and commentaries on her website, Timmel Fabrics. Go check out all the wonderful entries if you have a few moments to spare.

This year is bigger than ever. A grand total of 37 SWAPs have been submitted. It is amazing to see all the different fabrics, patterns and styles displayed.

A big thank you to Julie for once again taking on this contest and all the planning and work that goes along with it.

SWAP Combos - Part 3

2008-04-24T07:38:00.002-04:00

In my last two posts, I posted pictures of all the combos possible with the suiting pieces from my SWAP. Today, I want to finish up my SWAP photos with a few pictures of the dresses and the coat. I realize these aren't really combos, but I really love these pieces and I don't want to hurt their feelings by leaving them out of the fun!

Chocolate brown wool crepe dress (M7888)

Yellow silk dupioni dress (S7990)

Beige wool crepe coat (V5630)

That about wraps up the SWAP 2008 photo shoot. I am really pleased with how it all turned out. Now, over the next few weeks, I will be planning out my spring and summer wardrobe - I can't wait!

SWAP Combos - Part 2

2008-04-23T14:54:00.000-04:00

In my last post, I showed several of the combinations that could be made with my SWAP suiting separates. Today, I want to show you some more. However, I first want to say a big, fat thank-you to everyone that has stopped by and left such wonderful comments. Since I don't have any "real life" sewing compatriots, I really cherish all my cyber buddies (both old friends and new acquaintances).

Without further ado, here are all the possibilities with the multi-coloured tweed top:

Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 -wardrobe pattern)

Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + green herringbone skirt (B4105)

Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050)

Multi-coloured tweed top (S3108) + terracotta skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)

And here are all the possibilities with the terracotta wool top:

Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + terracotta skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)

Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050)

Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + green herringbone skirt (B4105)

Terracotta wool top (V5521 - wardrobe pattern) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 -wardrobe pattern)

Tomorrow: A few views of the dresses and the coat.

SWAP Combos - Part 1

2008-04-22T16:08:00.015-04:00

Over the next few days, I want to finish up my SWAP 2008 posts with pictures of the combinations that are possible using the different garments.

Today, I will start with the all the combos based the sand wool crepe top:

Sand wool crepe top (V1050) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050) + beige wool crepe coat (V5630)
This picture cracks me up. I guess I must be daydreaming about all the possible SWAP combos I can create with my new wardrobe!

Sand wool crepe top (V1050) + green herringbone wool skirt (B4105)

Sand wool crepe top (V1050) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)

Sand wool crepe top (V1050) + terracotta wool skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)

Next up, all the combinations with the green herringbone top:

Green herringbone top (B4105) + green herringbone skirt (B4105)

Green herringbone top (B4105) + sand wool crepe skirt (V1050)

Green herringbone top (B4105) + multi-coloured tweed skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)

Green herringbone top (B4105) + terracotta skirt (V5521 - wardrobe pattern)

Tomorrow: All the combos with the multi-coloured tweed top and the terracotta top.

Coat of Charms

2008-04-20T11:38:00.006-04:00

Jacqueline Kennedy wore this coat to her husband's inauguration ceremony on January 20, 1961. The coat was created in wool melton by Oleg Cassini. The coat was accessorized with a sable muff (to match the collar) to ensure that Jackie was warm enough on the cold January day.

Since I loved the lines and the colour of this coat, it was a no-brainer to include a garment inspired by it. As extra incentive, I was in need of a formal coat for layering over evening wear during the cooler weather months.

So, I was hoping to find a coat pattern that had similar lines. I searched eBay and several vintage pattern sites and came up empty. Then one day as I was flipping through my vintage patterns, I came across Vogue 5630. Sometimes exactly what you want really is right beneath your nose! Although there is no copyright date on the pattern, one quick glance at the drawing of the largest woman on the envelope front suggests that this pattern was meant to be a JK coat knockoff. The major style lines are the same and she is even holding a fur muff.

I debated about using this pattern to create a line for line replica of the JK coat, but in the end decided against it. I chose to use the pattern's more subtle pockets, rather than the large patch pockets - I try not to focus attention on my hip region. Also, I went with full length sleeves, rather than the 3/4 sleeves on the JK coat. I am not likely to wear long gloves and I want to stay warm, so longer sleeves it was! In the end, I used view A for the body and view C for the sleeves.

I made my coat of sand wool crepe, purchased from Fabric Mart during their wool blow-out a while back. The entire coat is interlined in a thick cotton flannel, to provide warmth and stability. The coat is lined in a stretch polyester charmeuse in a gorgeous copper colour.

Although the coat is classic and simple, there are a few features that set it apart. The front of the coat is topstitched along the princess seams, in which in-seam pockets are included (photo to the left). The closures in front consists of four bound buttonholes and four large self fabric covered buttons (photo to the right), which are backed by smaller buttons on the inside to make them more stable. The hems and lining were completed entirely by hand to keep the front clean and stitch free.

I can honestly say that I adore this coat. It is certainly one of my favourite pieces that I made for this year's SWAP, maybe one of my favourite pieces ever. I knew I was smitten as I was sewing it and the moment it was finished and I put it on, it was love! As I have mentioned before, I prefer a garment that has a certain weight to it - it just makes the entire piece feel luxurious.

Without further ado, here are a few shots of my coat, worn over some of my other SWAP garments:

Over the next few days, I plan on showing you a few more pictures showing several combinations that can be made using my SWAP garments. So, stay tuned...

My Chanel-ish Suit - Part 2

2008-04-19T22:26:00.002-04:00

*Rachelle asked, "Do you think you'd mind showing us the inside of the jacket?"
No problem, here's the inside of both the skirt and the jacket. The jacket lining was inserted completely by hand, as I feel it gives me more control over the placement.

As well, here is a close-up of one of the buttons (which I adore). The buttons are vintage glass with a tortoise pattern. This photo also gives you a much nicer view of the fabric. It is amazing the depth of colour that this fabric possesses.

I had forgotten to mention that the jacket was interfaced with sew-in hair canvas. The front facing, the back neck facing, the jacket hem and sleeve hems all benefited from the addition of this wonderful interfacing. It gives the jacket the perfect body and weight. I had hoped to finish off the inside of the jacket with chain, a la Chanel, but I could not find anything appropriate in any of my local stores. For future softly tailored jackets like this, I suppose I will have to turn my search to the internet. Anyone have any vendor suggestions? Marji?

My Chanel-ish Suit

2008-04-18T17:17:00.008-04:00

When I first saw this fabric on the Sawyer Brook website, it basically reached through the monitor and demanded that I own it. The name of this fabric was Cucurbits and to learn more about this name, visit Barb's Fabric Blog (the blog of the owner of Sawyer Brook).

When designing my SWAP, this fabric was chosen to be the central focus and all the other fabrics were picked based on colours found therein. In real life, the colours in this fabric are far more vivid and rich - it is one of the most beautiful wools with which I have ever worked.

Obviously, I needed an amazing pattern (or two) to showcase this exquisite fabric - something simple and classic. I decided to create a Chanel-style suit using Simplicity 3108 for the jacket and Vogue 5521 (which is my SWAP wardrobe pattern) for a slim skirt.

The Vogue 5521 slim skirt was very straightforward to sew - two darts in front, two darts in back, side zipper and a waistband. The only interesting thing about this skirt is the kick pleat. The back of the skirt is cut on a fold and a straight line of stitching, parallel to the centre back fold, creates a large pleat in the centre back which extends down to the hem. This pleat is pressed to one side and stitched down 8 inches above the hem. Below this, the pleat releases to form the kick pleat.

The Simplicity 3108 jacket is wonderful. It has a round neckline, 7/8 length kimono sleeves, buttons down the front and two decorative pocket flaps. I love the cropped length of this jacket - it sits at the perfect spot at the top of the hip. The jacket fits exceptionally well due to the shoulder and elbow darts. It is these small shaping darts that set the vintage patterns apart from the modern - it is unfortunate that most of today's patterns have so few of these useful dressmaker details.

Both the jacket and the skirt are lined in chocolate silk charmeuse, which finishes off the inside in a luxurious manner. The buttons on the jacket are gorgeous. They are vintage glass shank buttons that have a tortoise pattern. They add the perfect finishing touch to this jacket. I have included pictures of this suit in action:

I also have a couple of questions to answer.
*Nancy K. said, "Do you end up having to do a lot of grading on these vintage patterns or do you find them in your size? I'd also like to know when you sleep, you accomplish so much I am just in awe!"
Firstly, I actually do sleep so I have to find time for sewing elsewhere :) What helps is that I don't watch much TV and I don't have kids for which to care. As well, since I am a teacher, I am usually done work each day at 2:30 (except for afternoons when I have meetings or when I am swamped with marking or lesson planning) and I have two months off in the summer. All of this adds up to free time for sewing!!
In terms of vintage pattern sizing, I don't usually buy patterns unless they are in my size (which varies depending on the era, but I find just about anything with a bust of 31.5" works for me). I tend to be too lazy to do a lot of grading up or down.

*sklong@pa.net said, "I have a question about lining a skirt. The skirt pattern doesn't call for a lining; it's a very simple nearly straight skirt - just curved a bit at the hip - with an elastic waistband. Will I use the skirt pattern to make a lining for it? will the lining be attached just under the waist band? Or Should I treat the lining and skirt as one and make the casing for the elastic with the lining there also?"
You definitely can use the skirt pattern to make a lining for a straight skirt. Check out this helpful webpage (this is not for an elastic waist skirt but the principle is the same). Of course this assumes that there is a separate waistband into which the elastic is inserted.
However, if the elastic is inserted into a casing made by folding down the top of the skirt, you can handle it two different ways. If you are not worried about the waist being too bulky, construct the skirt and the lining, place them wrong sides together and turn down the top of the skirt and the lining together to form the casing for the elastic. Alternatively, remove all but 5/8" of the casing allowance from the top of the skirt and the matching lining. Sew the skirt and lining right sides together, along the top, with a 5/8" seam allowance. Turn skirt right side out and press along the top being sure that the lining does not show on the right side. Sew around the top of the skirt at 1" (if the elastic is 1") to create a casing that consists of the skirt fabric on the outside and the lining fabric on the inside. Be sure to leave a bit open to insert elastic and then finish sewing. I hope this makes sense.

Up next, the coat...

SWAP 2008 - Ode to Camelot

2008-04-16T18:46:00.008-04:00

Although you haven't seen all of my SWAP garments individually, I wanted to post a summary for Carolyn, so she doesn't explode!!

First off, here is the final version of my storyboard. A few things changed from the original. A couple of fabrics were switched out and a pattern was changed. You can click on the image to make it larger.

This year's SWAP was difficult for me, but I'm glad I persevered, as I really love my new wardrobe. Each year SWAP challenges me to do more, to try new techniques, to just all around up my sewing game. I try to create a wardrobe, that if I can actually pull it off in the allotted time, I will be proud to call my own. I guess I use SWAP as an opportunity to push my abilities and excel beyond my comfort zone.

This year, I decided to create a wardrobe of suiting separates. This was a difficult venture, as I wanted to create four suits that would not only stand on their own but would also be completely interchangeable. Creating a plan that took into account the style lines of the garment and the fabric choices, so that everything played nice together, was tough! Although I had to invest many hours into finding four coordinating fabrics and the patterns that worked well together, I am pleased with the final result. Each piece actually does look good with every other piece. I am also pleased with the two dresses and the coat that rounded out my SWAP plan. The dresses are flattering and the colours are smashing. The coat I absolutely adore - it is one of my favourite garments that I have ever sewn.

Each year, as I am working on my SWAP, I am surprised by some revelation related to my sewing personality. This year that revelation involved embellishment. All of my SWAP garments are clean, simple garments, with very little in the way of overt details. All the special tweaks, like bound buttonholes, silk linings and hand tailoring, are subtle and not immediately obvious to the casual observer. I have to admit this caused me some consternation, as I found myself desperately wanting to add some ribbon here or a bit of beading there. However, I really wanted this wardrobe to be true to the Jackie Kennedy inspiration and she was not one for extra frou-frou. Up until this point in my sewing career, I liked to add the occasional little something to set my garment apart from the norm, but I had never considered myself to be a big ornamentation kind of gal. Although, in the end I am glad I resisted the urge to "gild the lily" as I love my SWAP pieces as they are, I now feel compelled to embellish the heck out of something!

Anyhow, without further ado, here is the compilation of all my SWAP garments:
Next post, I want to show you the 'Chanel-ish' tweed suit, as these pieces are made from the most amazing fabric.

Paterson Pattern - Part 2

2008-04-15T15:40:00.009-04:00

In the last post, I showed you the Vogue 1050 skirt. The top that is included in this pattern has a very interesting sleeve and bodice treatment. Take a look at the envelope pictures below. In the front, the sleeve is cut in one with the bodice. In the back and under the arm, a separate sleeve piece is set in. In terms of the bodice, the back bodice pieces wrap from the back, under the arm and to the front. The back has a centred zipper, which allows the wearer to get in and out of the blouse.

A look at the section of the instructions describing the construction of the sleeve and bodice is worth a gander.

The bodice is quite comfortable due to this unique construction - it fits fairly close to the body in front, but hangs longer and blouses out in the back. The bodice is also shorter in the front, which is good as the skirt has gathers along the waistband in front, so there is no top volume where there is already skirt volume. This is a very well thought out design.

The top, like the skirt was constructed with a sand coloured silk charmeuse underlining. The underlining gives the top just enough extra oomph to make it feel solid and not flimsy. I find that well made garments tend to have a certain weight to them that sets them apart from cheap RTW trash. I truly believe that the success of a garment starts with the inside - the underlining and the interfacing provides a foundation from which the garment hangs and it is this foundation which can make or break a piece.

Here is a picture of me wearing both the skirt and the top. As you can see, I'm channeling my inner Jackie Kennedy with the pearls and the sunglasses. All I need is a pillbox hat and a luncheon to attend!

When I'm wearing this outfit, I feel so proper and lady-like. A while back, in a fashion magazine, they were touting the return of structured dressing. Man, I hope it's true! I love this tailored, put-together, classic look. I just hope it doesn't make me look like an old fuddy-duddy!

Last, but not least, Carolyn, I'm there for ya, baby! I am almost done the composite photo showing all eleven SWAP garments. I will post it as soon as it's ready to go...