My Chanel-ish Suit

When I first saw this fabric on the Sawyer Brook website, it basically reached through the monitor and demanded that I own it. The name of this fabric was Cucurbits and to learn more about this name, visit Barb's Fabric Blog (the blog of the owner of Sawyer Brook).

When designing my SWAP, this fabric was chosen to be the central focus and all the other fabrics were picked based on colours found therein. In real life, the colours in this fabric are far more vivid and rich - it is one of the most beautiful wools with which I have ever worked.

Obviously, I needed an amazing pattern (or two) to showcase this exquisite fabric - something simple and classic. I decided to create a Chanel-style suit using Simplicity 3108 for the jacket and Vogue 5521 (which is my SWAP wardrobe pattern) for a slim skirt.















The Vogue 5521 slim skirt was very straightforward to sew - two darts in front, two darts in back, side zipper and a waistband. The only interesting thing about this skirt is the kick pleat. The back of the skirt is cut on a fold and a straight line of stitching, parallel to the centre back fold, creates a large pleat in the centre back which extends down to the hem. This pleat is pressed to one side and stitched down 8 inches above the hem. Below this, the pleat releases to form the kick pleat.

The Simplicity 3108 jacket is wonderful. It has a round neckline, 7/8 length kimono sleeves, buttons down the front and two decorative pocket flaps. I love the cropped length of this jacket - it sits at the perfect spot at the top of the hip. The jacket fits exceptionally well due to the shoulder and elbow darts. It is these small shaping darts that set the vintage patterns apart from the modern - it is unfortunate that most of today's patterns have so few of these useful dressmaker details.

Both the jacket and the skirt are lined in chocolate silk charmeuse, which finishes off the inside in a luxurious manner. The buttons on the jacket are gorgeous. They are vintage glass shank buttons that have a tortoise pattern. They add the perfect finishing touch to this jacket. I have included pictures of this suit in action:




















I also have a couple of questions to answer.
*Nancy K. said, "Do you end up having to do a lot of grading on these vintage patterns or do you find them in your size? I'd also like to know when you sleep, you accomplish so much I am just in awe!"
Firstly, I actually do sleep so I have to find time for sewing elsewhere :) What helps is that I don't watch much TV and I don't have kids for which to care. As well, since I am a teacher, I am usually done work each day at 2:30 (except for afternoons when I have meetings or when I am swamped with marking or lesson planning) and I have two months off in the summer. All of this adds up to free time for sewing!!
In terms of vintage pattern sizing, I don't usually buy patterns unless they are in my size (which varies depending on the era, but I find just about anything with a bust of 31.5" works for me). I tend to be too lazy to do a lot of grading up or down.


*sklong@pa.net said, "I have a question about lining a skirt. The skirt pattern doesn't call for a lining; it's a very simple nearly straight skirt - just curved a bit at the hip - with an elastic waistband. Will I use the skirt pattern to make a lining for it? will the lining be attached just under the waist band? Or Should I treat the lining and skirt as one and make the casing for the elastic with the lining there also?"
You definitely can use the skirt pattern to make a lining for a straight skirt. Check out this helpful webpage (this is not for an elastic waist skirt but the principle is the same). Of course this assumes that there is a separate waistband into which the elastic is inserted.
However, if the elastic is inserted into a casing made by folding down the top of the skirt, you can handle it two different ways. If you are not worried about the waist being too bulky, construct the skirt and the lining, place them wrong sides together and turn down the top of the skirt and the lining together to form the casing for the elastic. Alternatively, remove all but 5/8" of the casing allowance from the top of the skirt and the matching lining. Sew the skirt and lining right sides together, along the top, with a 5/8" seam allowance. Turn skirt right side out and press along the top being sure that the lining does not show on the right side. Sew around the top of the skirt at 1" (if the elastic is 1") to create a casing that consists of the skirt fabric on the outside and the lining fabric on the inside. Be sure to leave a bit open to insert elastic and then finish sewing. I hope this makes sense.


Up next, the coat...

SWAP 2008

This year, the Timmel SWAP 2008, has had me betwixted and bewildered. Here it is, 20 days since the start date of the competition and only now have I finally settled on a plan of action. I have yet to put needle to fabric. Up 'til now, I just could not get my SWAPping mojo working - every time I thought I had an idea, it fell through. Either the fabrics didn't complement each other or my wardrobe pattern wasn't working. I think however, I have finally figured it all out.

I have been wanting to add some suits to my working wardrobe and creating a SWAP that revolved around interchangeable suiting pieces seemed like a workable idea for SWAP. I wanted each suit to stand on its own, as well as having the flexibility of treating each garment like a coordinating separate. I knew from the beginning that I wanted to use Jacqueline Kennedy (JK) as my inspiration for this wardrobe. Her style is the quintessence of elegance, sophistication and good taste. When I think of classic, timeless clothing, JK always comes to mind. So, I have working for over month trying to get all the pieces to come together on a storyboard. The fabrics had to work together interchangeably and the style and lines of each garment had to complement all the other garments. Last, but certainly not least, the wardrobe had to take inspiration from JK, but work on my body (which is nothing like JK's).

Please note that all garment inspiration photos were taken from the book, Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years. If you like JK and/or 1960s fashion, this book is phenomenal. I first learned of its existence from Carolyn and boy, am I glad I did! Although the book is a bit pricey, it is well worth it in my opinion. The garment photos are exquisite and the accompanying historical info (date and location where garment was worn, designer and fabric) is interesting and useful for the seamstress looking to knock off JK's wardrobe. I have other books on JK, but this one is by far my favourite. The book is broken into several chapters, the most interesting of which are the ones focusing on her influence on 60s fashion. My favourite chapters are "Campaign", "Inauguration", "White House Style" and "Travel". Each of these chapters features several outfits worn by JK during the whirlwind of supporting her husband in his bid for the presidency and the ensuing time in the White House. It is amazing how fresh and timeless most of her choices still appear today. That is the mark of true style.

My storyboard includes a fabric swatch (accompanied by fabric type and vendor), the pattern and the JK inspiration garment(s).


I think I will be sticking with this plan, but if any amazing fabric or pattern jumps into my lap, I may pull a switcheroo - I guess we'll just have to see how it goes! I'm not exactly sure which piece I'll start with first. I am leaning toward the coat, but I want to do the sable collar, like in the original. However, I'm having a heck of a time tracking down good looking faux fur (I don't want real fur - it gives me the heebie-jeebies). If any one has any good sources for faux fur, do tell please.

Back on Track

Well, for obvious reasons, I have been sidelined in my sewing pursuits lately. Today, however, is the day. The day to regroup...the day to refocus...the day to recommit! I have a fall/winter wardrobe plan in progress and I will not give up on it now. I had a skirt almost finished two weeks ago and it needs to get finished (today). I also have another (not in the plan) skirt just waiting for a hem and waist treatment.

I will admit to not feeling very inspired lately, but it's amazing what buying a butt load of fabric and patterns can do for a person's psyche. So, yesterday I went cyber-shopping.


First Stop : Fabric Mart
We all know about the big wool sale at FM. I finally gave in yesterday and purchased some gabardines (black and taupe) and crepes (mustard and dark periwinkle), along with an Anna Sui silk charmeuse (on sale too).



Second Stop: Sawyer Brook
Although I have done a bunch of browsing at SB, I have never taken the plunge and purchased anything. Yesterday, one of their fine wools spoke so loudly to me, I knew it was fate. The wool of which I speak is named Curcurbits and it is a multicoloured wool tweed. While browsing the sale category, I also picked up some avocado wool double knit (for $12/yd!!) and some wool/cotton/lycra suiting in desert (the off-white one on the right in the third photo below).



Third Stop: Lanetz Living
I love LL. I would love to pile up all her patterns and roll in them (seriously). So, yesterday, I went, I browsed, I bought. BTW, take a look at the last pattern - am I the only one terrified by the envelope art that McCall's used in the 70s? **shudder**