Butterick 8020

Pattern: Butterick 8020 - vintage pattern - no date - most likely 50s.

This dress has an empire waistline. The skirt and lower torso are cut as one and the front and back upper bodice are separate pieces. There is a band and bow detail just beneath the bust. There is a small cap sleeve and a flared skirt. The closure is a side zipper.










Size: One size in package - 12S (the "S" stands for "sub-teen") - bust 31", waist 25", hip 31".

Fabric:
Jones New York dark brown stretch cotton with tan floral motifs from Fabric Mart - used for first muslin.









Red cotton with mustard paisley print from the WalMart bargain bin & a mustard cotton jersey from Wazoodle - used for second muslin.

Project Photo:
Comments:
This is yet another pattern I will be using for my SWAP. I had never used a vintage pattern with a "sub-teen" sizing designation, so I figured I had better make a muslin (or two).

First Muslin:
I cut the pattern out as is - no adjustments whatsoever. I figured most vintage patterns with a bust size between 30.5" and 31.5" had been fairly good for me in the past. That will teach me not to flat pattern measure like I usually do, because when I tried on the dress, it was huge. I could gather a least 4" of fabric at the waist and probably 3" of fabric at the bust (the hip was fine because of the flared skirt). The other problem was the placement of the waist. It sat about 1" too high on me. I sewed all the seams 1/2" deeper, effectively shaving off 1" at each seam. I could not remove any fabric at the two sides since I had already sewn in the zipper and I refuse to pick out a zipper on a muslin. These alterations have now made the dress wearable.
To fix the problems faced with the first muslin, I traced out all the skirt pattern pieces - there are 4 of them. Each skirt section was lengthened above the waist by 1". Each piece was also cut down the middle along the grainline and then pasted back together with 1/4" overlapping. This removes 1/2" per pattern piece, reducing the waist by the 4" required. I also shortened the skirt at the bottom by 1".
Due to the alteration of the skirt (and the lower torso), the bodice needed to be downsized in terms of its width. . I left the back bodice the same size across the neckline and shoulders, as it fit perfectly. However, I deepened the two darts at the lower end by scant 1" each. The front bodice and its facing are cut on a fold - I removed 1/2" along the foldline. The lower front torso is gathered to provide room for the bust - I just gathered this area an extra bit to take up any excess fabric. You can see the pattern adjustments that were made in the photos.

To give the dress a finishing touch, I choose to handstitch a coordinating ribbon just below the bust, instead of using the band and bow detail provided by the pattern.

Second Muslin:
The second muslin was made out of a non-stretch fabric for the skirt and a stretch fabric for the bodice, as these are the types of fabrics that will be used in the final SWAP garment. The alterations to the pattern were dead on - everything now fits exactly the way it should and I am pleased with the result. I choose to use the band and bow on this dress, as they will be used on the SWAP dress and I wanted to be sure of the placement. Last but not least, I zigzag topstitched the seams in the skirt with mustard thread and I must say the vertical lines are quite becoming.

Conclusion:
After two muslins, I am now confident about cutting into the good fabric to create my SWAP dress. After that dress is complete, I'm not sure I will want to sew this pattern again for a while, because of the effort that went into it. I always seem to do this - get a pattern perfectly fitted and then I abandon it because, quite frankly, I'm sick of looking at it. Who knows, when spring rolls around, I will likely feel the irresistable urge to sew a sundress and this pattern would be lovely in linen, with topstitched seams.

"Lucy, you got some 'splainin' to do."

It's Jan 3rd and so far my new year's resolutions are not going well. But, Lucy's Fabrics had a sale and I've been wanting some of those fabrics for a while and she just got in some new rayon/lycra jersey and I used a coupon and I can stop anytime I want...Wait a minute, now I'm starting to sound like an addict. Trust me, I know exactly what I'm doing - I'll get right back on track with my stash reduction tomorrow. Everything will be fine. Besides, I don't have to explain myself to you - you're not the boss of me! :)

Drumroll please...

Double Knit Brown & Stretch Fleece Cream
Rayon Lycra Jersey: Blue Mood, Green Pucci, Hermes Inspired, Peacock
& Peacock Sheer

Simplicty 3881

Pattern: Simplicity 3881, vintage 50s pattern

Size: One size in envelope; waist 24", hip 33"

Fabric: Black Silk Dupioni










Project Photo:



















Inspiration:
I saw this outfit online and I was instantly smitten with the simple, elegant lines. I don't have any need for a floor length gown, so I decided to make my version a tad shorter. Also, I'm not sure if the original is a one-piece dress or two separate pieces. I decide to make two pieces, as it increases my wearing options. Don't forget, you can click on the photo to enlarge it.

Comments:
This is the first piece that I have completed for my SWAP. I had already done a wearable muslin for this pattern (see the post below this one), so I knew that the fit would be good. This version went to together easily.

I was going to underline the silk fabric, but, in the end, I decided against it. I want to be able to wear this skirt two different ways. With just a light slip underneath, it falls close to the body and looks less dressy. For dressier occassions, I plan on wearing a petticoat (which I plan on making ) underneath to puff it up.

Conclusion:
The top to complete this oufit is very high on my to-do list, so keep a lookout for it.

Simplicity 3881

Pattern: Simplicity 3881 - vintage pattern - no copyright date, but it certainly looks like the 50s.



















Size: one size in package - waist 24", hip 33"

Fabric: Maggy London sueded fabric (100% polyester) from Fabric Mart.














Project Photo:

Comments:
This is another pattern I would like to use in my SWAP. I decided a wearable muslin would be in order, before I cut into the good fabric, to tweak the fit and work out any problems. The fabric is another bargain from Fabric Mart. Although I don't love polyester fabrics, this one is actually quite nice - I love, love, love the all-over multicoloured embroidery work. I can see wearing this skirt with tops in so many colours - orange, coral, green, blue and yellow.

The pattern is very simple, one piece is cut out for both the front and back of the skirt. A waistband and a cummerbund are also cut out (I choose not to make the cummerbund for this incarnation of the skirt). Although this skirt is quite full at the hem (it is a half-circle skirt), there is very little bulk at the waist due to the pie-shaped pattern piece. It hugs the waist and upper hip nicely, then falls gracefully down from there. This is great for women like me that have less than svelte hips and thighs.

The skirt went together easily. This would be an easy project for a relative beginner. The only concern for a beginner might be the insertion of the side zipper.

For the hem, I stitched 1/4" from the lower edge of the skirt and then pressed under the 1/4" using the stitching as a guide. I then turned and pressed up another 1/4" to conceal the raw edges. The hem was stitched a scant 1/4" all around and this gave a nice finish. The skirt is 29" from waist to hem, which is a decent length for a long skirt on me.

Conclusion:
I will definitely make this pattern again (even after I use it for my SWAP). I can envision creating the scalloped hem version as well. I see it in black satin with a black lace and tulle petticoat. Just for kicks, I think I would bead embroider a poodle on the lower edge.

Auld Lang Syne

Well, I've talked about resolutions for the new year already. I guess it's time to take stock of the year gone by. This year was a prolific one for me. I accomplished the following:

1. I sewed 103 garments for myself. This includes about 5 non-wearable muslins.
2. I sewed 14 garments for my husband.
3. I sewed 1 dog bed for my pooch.
4. I completed the first stage of a SWAP, which consists of 11 garments.
5. I won second place in the Timmel SWAP contest.
   
6. My SWAP clothing was featured in Australian Stitches magazine.
   
7. I planned out several other full SWAPs and completed many of the pieces: here, here, here, here & here.
8. I sewed a formal dress to wear to Prom.
9. I got some summer sewing done.
10. I started a blog.
    

All things considered, it was good year. I hope next year will be as good to me.

Happy New Year everyone. I hope you and your loved ones flourish and find peace and joy.

Simplicity 7990

Pattern: Simplicity 7990 - this pattern has a copyright date of 1968



















Size: One size in the package - size 8 - bust 31.5, waist 23, hip 33.5

Fabric: Maggy London sueded fabric (100% polyester) from Fabric Mart.











Project Photo:
In the second photo you can see how nicely the stripes ended up. I was rather pleased with the effect created by the straight grain stripes contrasting with the bias stripes. Here are a couple other fun photos - hey, the pattern is from the 60s, so why not a little dancing from the 60s?

Comments:
This pattern is one of the ones I am considering for my SWAP. I figured I should probably work out any fitting quirks before I cut into the good fabric. I decided to use up this sueded fabric, as it was likely inexpensive and, in all honesty, not one of my favourite fabrics in the stash. I'm not really sure why I bought it as I am not normally a big fan of polyester (besides being "non-breathable", it is a static cling magnet). I'm guessing Fabric Mart had it on for such a good price, I got sucked in by the siren song of a good bargain. This fabric was a bit more finicky to cut out due to the striped pattern. It probably took me 1.5 hours total to make sure all the stripes would be placed nicely on the garment and I think this extra effort was worth it.

The pattern, aside from the obvious instructions to cut out the fashion fabric, also has you cut out underlining for the bodice, skirt and midriff, as well as lining for the midriff. You rarely see underlining (and sometimes even lining) mentioned in modern patterns. I like how things were done "back in the day" - if you're going to take the time to construct a garment, do it right. The underlining and the lining really do give this dress the body needed to sit nicely on the wearer. For the underlining and lining, I used a Ralph Lauren cotton bedsheet that I had picked up for a song several years ago. It has a nice paisley pattern and it gives the inside of the dress a nice finish.

The dress went together beautifully - all the notches and markings were perfect. This project was fairly time consuming (approximately 10 hours from laying out the pattern on the fabric to hand finishing the lining, facings and hems), considering how simple the dress appears on the envelope. However, it was not a difficult project - anyone with decent sewing skills and some patience could complete this dress without much issue.

Conclusion:
I have found that this type of A-line dress is good for my pear-shaped figure and I find this particular dress to be flattering. Unfortunately, it is a smidge tight through the midriff - although once the extra holiday pounds come off, it should fit perfectly. I really like this dress - more than I thought I would. It will make a nice addition to my work wardrobe.

Yeah...Well...The New Year Doesn't Start Until Monday...

OK, I couldn't resist- I mean, come on, it's Textile Studio. I am absolutely, 100%, completely unable to resist a Textile Studio sale. Besides, I didn't buy that much (at least compared to how much fabric there is in the world...). So, without further ado, here's the damage:

Reversible Flower Herringbone - This will become Simplicity 6412. The dress and the cuffs and collar on the coat will be made of the flowered side and the body of the coat will be the plain herringbone side (see view 2). I can't wait to get my hands on this fabric!

Bittersweet & Olive Daimond Jacquard and Bittersweet Zigzag Texture - these two fabrics are destined to be Butterick 4060. The jacquard fabric will become the short jacket and the solid fabric will become the sheath dress.

Silk Dot Velvet, Lined Flower Sheer and Milk Chocolate Lace - I haven't chosen patterns yet, however, I evision the velvet and lace combined in a coat and the flower print as a dress to go under the coat.















Rust Flower Print Onionskin, Burnt Orange Textured Silk and NaturalTextured Weave Silk - The onion skin will become a simple top- I'm thinking Vogue 2925 (viewB). The orange silk is going to be a TS Mandarin Jacket and the natural silk will be the jacket from Simplicity 7305 (another vintage pattern).















Dot & Square Burnout Velvet - This fabric has McCall's 5336 written all over it (the open front, dolman sleeve version in red on the pattern cover). If you want this pattern, it's for sale by one of my favourite eBayers- just click the link above.















Fire & Ice Burnout Velvet and Gold Leaf Lace - I'm unsure of what these two fabrics will become, I just know that they spoke to me. Unfortunately, at this point all they're willing to say is "Buy me", but no word on what they want to become yet. Sometimes, the tight-lipped ones turn out to be the most interesting guests.

New Year's Re"sew"lutions

It's that time of year again - time to take stock of the past year and decide on goals for the next. Although I don't normally do this sort of thing, I'm going to toss caution to the wind & throw down the gauntlet. I am officially issuing myself a few challenges, to begin Jan 1st, 2007:

1. I will sew mainly from stash. I will only allow myself to buy 1 m of fabric from each 5 m of fabric I sew up. If my stash gets any larger, I will have to buy a semi truck so I can use the trailer for storage.
   
2. I will test drive all the new sewing machine feet I have bought in the past year. They aren't doing me much good nestled in the cute little box I bought for them - they must start earning their keep!
3. I will use patterns more than once and develop some TNTs. I tend to use a pattern, keeping note of all the changes I will make the next time I use it. However, I rarely actually make the pattern again (when it comes to patterns, monogamy is not my strong point - I guess I'm just a pattern harlot).
4. I will sew at least every other day - even if it's just a single seam.
   
5. I will sew all of the boring stuff I never want to sew, but really need to sew (like white T-shirts).

So, tell me folks, what are some of your resolutions?