20 April 2008

Coat of Charms

Jacqueline Kennedy wore this coat to her husband's inauguration ceremony on January 20, 1961. The coat was created in wool melton by Oleg Cassini. The coat was accessorized with a sable muff (to match the collar) to ensure that Jackie was warm enough on the cold January day.

Since I loved the lines and the colour of this coat, it was a no-brainer to include a garment inspired by it. As extra incentive, I was in need of a formal coat for layering over evening wear during the cooler weather months.

So, I was hoping to find a coat pattern that had similar lines. I searched eBay and several vintage pattern sites and came up empty. Then one day as I was flipping through my vintage patterns, I came across Vogue 5630. Sometimes exactly what you want really is right beneath your nose! Although there is no copyright date on the pattern, one quick glance at the drawing of the largest woman on the envelope front suggests that this pattern was meant to be a JK coat knockoff. The major style lines are the same and she is even holding a fur muff.

I debated about using this pattern to create a line for line replica of the JK coat, but in the end decided against it. I chose to use the pattern's more subtle pockets, rather than the large patch pockets - I try not to focus attention on my hip region. Also, I went with full length sleeves, rather than the 3/4 sleeves on the JK coat. I am not likely to wear long gloves and I want to stay warm, so longer sleeves it was! In the end, I used view A for the body and view C for the sleeves.

I made my coat of sand wool crepe, purchased from Fabric Mart during their wool blow-out a while back. The entire coat is interlined in a thick cotton flannel, to provide warmth and stability. The coat is lined in a stretch polyester charmeuse in a gorgeous copper colour.

Although the coat is classic and simple, there are a few features that set it apart. The front of the coat is topstitched along the princess seams, in which in-seam pockets are included (photo to the left). The closures in front consists of four bound buttonholes and four large self fabric covered buttons (photo to the right), which are backed by smaller buttons on the inside to make them more stable. The hems and lining were completed entirely by hand to keep the front clean and stitch free.

I can honestly say that I adore this coat. It is certainly one of my favourite pieces that I made for this year's SWAP, maybe one of my favourite pieces ever. I knew I was smitten as I was sewing it and the moment it was finished and I put it on, it was love! As I have mentioned before, I prefer a garment that has a certain weight to it - it just makes the entire piece feel luxurious.

Without further ado, here are a few shots of my coat, worn over some of my other SWAP garments:



















Over the next few days, I plan on showing you a few more pictures showing several combinations that can be made using my SWAP garments. So, stay tuned...

20 comments:

Toby Wollin said...

One words says it all: WOW.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Thank you, thank you, thank you...for showing us all the wonderful and amazing pieces of your SWAP! You definitely did what you set out to do and made an awesome collection with an amazing nod to the Camelot period!

SRR said...

That coat is to die for. Awesome!!

Sigrid said...

Shannon, this is sooo beautiful. Love to see your pictures with you wearing your swap clothes.

Alexandra said...

Absolutely gorgeous!

Anonymous said...

You look great!

The coat to too die for.

Lisa

Summerset said...

Such a gorgeous coat. I think I would have kept the inseam pockets, too, they're very elegant!

Vicki said...

How absolutely gorgeous! It all works so well. Love the shoes too!

Anonymous said...

Just unbelievably fabulous! The details are gorgeous.
Marguerite

Paula said...

Excellent coat! Good call on those saddle bags, er, pockets on the original.

a little sewing on the side said...

Your coat is just beautiful and you look like a million bucks in it. I love seeing the details of your work.

Noile said...

Fantastic, and you wear it with such elan!

Lori said...

This is such an elegant and classic coat. Thanks for sharing your SWAP. Great photos, BTW.

ACorgiHouse said...

Thanks for showing this classic coat. It clearly reflects the time of JK, and I think the price on the pattern supports it is quite original! Can't wait to see the whole swap together, you blew me away last year. I plan to be there next year, already cooking up my ideas! karent

Marji said...

it's Just Lovely, as is all of your swap wardrobe. Beautiful

Tany said...

I believe this coat couldn't look better or be better constructed! Fabulous! I love everything about it and you really made a masterpiece!

Faye Lewis said...

What a wonderful coat, looks great on you too!

kbenco said...

Your coat is gorgeous too, but how can you bear to cover up your beautiful suits?

LauraLo said...

Beautiful! And I agree with your decision to keep the in-seam pockets. Very elegant

denise@thebluegardenia.com said...

Absolutely gorgeous coat. Love it.