Ready, Set, SWAP!

I have decided to start sewing on my Timmel SWAP 2008 with a jacket (which will be worn as a button front top) and skirt combo. The pattern is vintage, Butterick 4105. Although there is no date on it, it is obviously an offering from the 1960s. The description on the pattern envelope reads:

Semi-fitted jacket has three-quarter sleeves and rolled collar. Slightly A-line skirt has pockets and front seams.

The two garments will be made from a beautiful green and cream herringbone wool, purchased from Fabric Mart. The fabric is of medium weight and it should complement the style lines of the pattern nicely. The pattern calls for the jacket/top to be fully lined (using the provided lining pattern pieces - I love when the pattern provides separate lining pieces), while the skirt is not. I do, however, plan on lining the skirt, just to finish it off nicely inside and for ease of wearing. The linings I'm debating about using are shown below. All of them are silk charmeuse. I'm sure many of you recognize the Anna Sui silks from Fabric Mart. The others are from a local chain store. Right now I'm leaning toward the first one. Any opinions?



The jacket/top has several darts for shaping - shoulder, side to bust, waist to bust and elbow. This many darts is always welcome as it provides many fitting opportunities, although I tend to find that vintage patterns tend to fit me well in the shoulder through waist areas. So, I'm not envisioning many tweaks, especially since this jacket/top is not supposed to be close fitting.

The skirt on the other hand requires some work. Flat pattern measuring provides a waist and hip measurements of 24.5" and 36", which translate into an ease of 0.5" and 3" in those respective regions. My measurements are not quite the same. I will have to add 2" to the waist and 5" to the hip to ensure the skirt fits and to maintain the original design ease. Expanding the waist is not a problem as there is just a waistband to lengthen (see pattern piece #14 to the right) and the body of the skirt gathers onto this waistband. The hip, however, will require more work. The main body of the skirt is four pieces. Pattern piece #11 is the pocket, which can be left as is. Piece #13 is the back, which is cut twice to accommodate a back zipper. Piece #10 is the side front, which is cut twice and piece #12 is the front piece, which is cut once on the fold. Pieces #10, #12 and #13 will all require adjustment and I plan on distributing the 5" expansion fairly evenly throughout these pieces.

Now, I really need to get down to some sewing. I'll report back soon!