Pattern: Vogue 8319
Size: This pattern comes in sizes 6 to 20 - I made a 6 in the bust and waist and expanded out to the 10 in the hips.
Fabric: Fashion Fabric - Yellow silk tweed from Timmel Fabrics, Lining - Toffee silk gauze from Timmel Fabrics.
Comments: Let me start by saying, I love the dress, but I don't love the jacket. I have always been enamoured of a good sheath dress. Depending on the fabric used, it can take you anywhere. Use a fun, floral cotton and you're set for running errands on a beautiful summer day. Use a richly coloured wool double knit and you're all set for work. Use a embroidered silk taffeta or a lush sueded silk and you will rock the party. There simply is no situation in which a sheath dress is not appropriate. Thus, I am always seeking out the next great sheath pattern and Vogue 8319 is it. I love the shoulder yokes. This shoulder line on me is particularly flattering, as it balances out my disproportionately large (compared to the rest of me) hips. Also, the princess lines/darts make fitting a breeze.
When I first picked up this pattern, I was smitten with the jacket - it is so Jackie Kennedy. However, like many things in life, sometimes dreams are better than reality. Although I still love the concept of this jacket, I just can't seem to get it to hang properly - the front hem does not hang smoothly, but, rather falls in folds. I think part of my problem is the fabric I used. The silk suiting is fairly soft and pliable - I truly believe a stiffer fabric is necessary. However, not so stiff that the jacket stands away from the body awkwardly. Also, the collar is a pain. The jacket crosses over in the front and it is held closed by three buttons placed off centre. The underlap has one button at the collar to keep it in the proper position. With my jacket, I find that the underlap portion is so heavy that it pulls at the collar, which is not attractive. I tried to remedy the aforementioned problems by using parallel, horizontal rows of stitching on the entire collar, in the hopes that this would stiffen the collar enough to support the weight of the underlap. It didn't work. I also topstitched all around the hem of the jacket in an effort to add some body and force it to hang straighter. It didn't work. In retrospect, I should have interfaced the _ _ _ _ out of the collar and hem - I think that would have alleviated some of the problems. Oh, I almost forgot, to add insult to injury, I fully lined the jacket, which was not called for by the instructions - I guess when I have a wadder, I go big!
Conclusion: All in all, one triumph and one failure. I can't get too upset - at least I got a great dress out of the deal. Also, I have a perfectly fitted, fabulous new dress pattern. At some point, I may take another whack at the jacket, armed with lots of interfacing and fabric with better body.