15 September 2007

Vogue 8319

Pattern: Vogue 8319

: This pattern comes in sizes 6 to 20 - I made a 6 in the bust and waist and expanded out to the 10 in the hips.

Fabric: Fashion Fabric - Yellow silk tweed from Timmel Fabrics, Lining - Toffee silk gauze from Timmel Fabrics.

Project Photo

Comments: Let me start by saying, I love the dress, but I don't love the jacket. I have always been enamoured of a good sheath dress. Depending on the fabric used, it can take you anywhere. Use a fun, floral cotton and you're set for running errands on a beautiful summer day. Use a richly coloured wool double knit and you're all set for work. Use a embroidered silk taffeta or a lush sueded silk and you will rock the party. There simply is no situation in which a sheath dress is not appropriate. Thus, I am always seeking out the next great sheath pattern and Vogue 8319 is it. I love the shoulder yokes. This shoulder line on me is particularly flattering, as it balances out my disproportionately large (compared to the rest of me) hips. Also, the princess lines/darts make fitting a breeze.

When I first picked up this pattern, I was smitten with the jacket - it is so Jackie Kennedy. However, like many things in life, sometimes dreams are better than reality. Although I still love the concept of this jacket, I just can't seem to get it to hang properly - the front hem does not hang smoothly, but, rather falls in folds. I think part of my problem is the fabric I used. The silk suiting is fairly soft and pliable - I truly believe a stiffer fabric is necessary. However, not so stiff that the jacket stands away from the body awkwardly. Also, the collar is a pain. The jacket crosses over in the front and it is held closed by three buttons placed off centre. The underlap has one button at the collar to keep it in the proper position. With my jacket, I find that the underlap portion is so heavy that it pulls at the collar, which is not attractive. I tried to remedy the aforementioned problems by using parallel, horizontal rows of stitching on the entire collar, in the hopes that this would stiffen the collar enough to support the weight of the underlap. It didn't work. I also topstitched all around the hem of the jacket in an effort to add some body and force it to hang straighter. It didn't work. In retrospect, I should have interfaced the _ _ _ _ out of the collar and hem - I think that would have alleviated some of the problems. Oh, I almost forgot, to add insult to injury, I fully lined the jacket, which was not called for by the instructions - I guess when I have a wadder, I go big!

Conclusion: All in all, one triumph and one failure. I can't get too upset - at least I got a great dress out of the deal. Also, I have a perfectly fitted, fabulous new dress pattern. At some point, I may take another whack at the jacket, armed with lots of interfacing and fabric with better body.


cidell said...

What a stunning fabric choice. I love the dress too. I'm sorry you don't like the jacket, but how GREAT are you gonna look walking around in that dress?

Summerset said...

What a lovely fabric - I'm sure look gorgeous in it!

Yes, I love the dress pattern for the exact same reasons you do - the shoulder is unique! We seem to have the same body shape, too. I always cut a couple sizes larger through the hip than bust, and have a really small waist to add to the imbalanced look.

I wonder if underlining the silk for the jacket only and then interfacing the hem/collar would have helped in addition to lining it. I lined mine, but still used the hem facings which I think helped the hemline. I bound all the edges of the hem facings and hand stitched the free edges of the facings to the lining. If you're thinking of revisiting the jacket some time, I'll post some pictures of the interior of mine if you'd like.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Shannon ~ the fabric choice is stunning and I liked that you lined the pieces in a comparable color. Did you ever think of inserting a tie into the side seam of the jacket and then to the offending underlap and tying them closed. That might solve some problems...why don't you try pinning a piece of ribbon in and seeing if it would work...I mean you put all of that work into the LINED jacket maybe a "fix" would save the jacket!

Oh and now I can "see" what you did on your summer vacation! *smile*

patsijean said...


The dress is beautiful.

I agree with Summerset about underlining the jacket. When I first read your review, I thought about fusible weft interfacing as underlining. I have been experimenting with it, and it would have added a good hand to the fabric for a jacket without losing the character of the fabric. That jacket is designed to be structured, not drapy.

But, now that you have the jacket, try Carolyn's suggestion. You may find that you still do not like it with the dress, so perhaps you can wear it with jeans, or brown trousers for a more casual look.

Vicki said...

You have some good suggestions already. Mine was to completely undo it and interface/ underline for body (which of course would not be fun!!!).

Love the dress. Maybe I should look at getting it as my figure is fairly similar.

Linda said...

I agree with you about sheath dresses. I love them, I have made soo many of them. They fit me well and I always get compliments when I wear them. Sorry to read the jacket wasn't as expected. I too have this pattern and I have made note of your comments.

Tany said...

I have that pattern in my stash! You dress looks stunning and I'm sorry the jacket didn't work out the way you planned... Maybe a second try in the future?

LauraLo said...

I'm smitten with that jacket too. And with the Jackie O look in general. I'm so sorry it didn't work out (the dress looks very nice though) but I'm sure that with a stiffer fabric and/or interfacing or underlining it will work out.
Great colour too!