17 March 2007

Will the Real Ralph Rucci Please Stand Up? - Part Three

This is the last Rucci jacket post. See the other two posts here and here.

Design Orientation: The applique pieces were laid out on the jacket fronts in the appropriate positions. Unfortunately, I did not have any fusible web (and I was too engrossed in the process to go out and get some) to keep the appliques from shifting. In lieu of the web, I pinned each piece to within an inch of its life (the photo at right has about a fifth of all the pins that were eventually used). In that photo, the crease where the cut on front facing folds back on itself can be seen. After placing the appliques and folding the facings, the two jacket fronts can be seen together in the photo at right. Each jacket front has a full design that wraps from the front to the front facing. When the two fronts are placed together there is a mirror image design outside and inside the jacket front. Since this jacket has no closures, I like that the appliques inside will be seen when the jacket opens during wearing.

Applique Application: The appliques were stitched down with a medium zigzag stitch, basically a satin stitch. The black silk pieces were sewn down first, followed by the satin and finally the rust silk. Any place the appliques overlapped, the stitching was stopped at the edge of the different coloured piece - there was no sense in stitching something that would then be covered up. The process was slow to guarantee neatness and a minimum of shifting.

Construction: The jacket was put together as per the pattern instructions - nothing earth shattering to mention here. Except a small reminder that when sewing cut on sleeves, it always a good idea to strengthen the underarm seam with a piece of seam tape or a sturdy selvedge edge from your fabric (see photo at right).

A matching coffee coloured Bemberg lining was sewn in by hand to conceal all the raw edges inside the jacket.

Project Photos: Below there is a full front picture and a closeup, as well as an inside view.


















Conclusion: This was a very time consuming, labour intensive article of clothing. I figure I spent close to 20 hours from start to finish on this project. Considering this is my first attempt at applique work, I am quite pleased with how it turned out. I can foresee attempting other "Rucci-esque" designs in the future - I am always inspired when I see his work.

12 comments:

cmarie12 said...

Shannon ~ as a Ralph Rucci afficiendo, I really appreciate how you interpreted his look and made it your own. The jacket is stunning and the 20 hours of work is evident in the finished product. Every time I look at your SWAP, I think of this line in Miss Congeniality..."your gonna win, you are so smart and so funny...you are really gonna win!"

However, whether you win the prize or not you have already won with the fabu wardrobe that you have constructed.

Tany said...

This jacket is absolutely gorgeous! Thos 20 hours of labor intensive work were well spent!

Els said...

Compliments on your work. The Rucci inspired jacket is gorgeous made and shows your impeccable sewing skills.

MéLisa said...

I am really at a loss for words! That jacket is amazing! I could not agree more with Cmarie12 that no matter the contest out come you are going to have a fabulous wardorbe! Goodness I jsut cannot get over that jacket!

stacy said...

You did beautiful work on this jacket - you can really see the hard work that you put into it!

Beth said...

It's stunning! Thanks for sharing!

Gaylen said...

Shannon - wonderful jacket. Between Carolyn's challenge and your inspiring work - I'm getting motivated to make a jacket of my own :) Keep up the inspirational work! g

Vicki said...

Your work is just stunning. What I like the most about the jacket, is the way you have incorporated the other fabrics (from the SWAP) so that it co-ordinates, yet it looks so complete on its own. It will not look at all like you added the applique just to match. Wonderful!

Sharon said...

This is so beautiful! All of what you've been working on is fabulous, but this is absolutely stunning!

Anonymous said...

That's beautiful, and beautifully done! Your satin stich is gorgeous!
I like the lines of the jacket as well.

Summerset said...

Very nice - the colors are lovely and the way the appliques wrap to the facing really make for an interesting interior finish!

Linda said...

What a stunning jacket! Just lovely!