Will the Real Ralph Rucci Please Stand Up? - Part Three

This is the last Rucci jacket post. See the other two posts here and here.

Design Orientation: The applique pieces were laid out on the jacket fronts in the appropriate positions. Unfortunately, I did not have any fusible web (and I was too engrossed in the process to go out and get some) to keep the appliques from shifting. In lieu of the web, I pinned each piece to within an inch of its life (the photo at right has about a fifth of all the pins that were eventually used). In that photo, the crease where the cut on front facing folds back on itself can be seen. After placing the appliques and folding the facings, the two jacket fronts can be seen together in the photo at right. Each jacket front has a full design that wraps from the front to the front facing. When the two fronts are placed together there is a mirror image design outside and inside the jacket front. Since this jacket has no closures, I like that the appliques inside will be seen when the jacket opens during wearing.

Applique Application: The appliques were stitched down with a medium zigzag stitch, basically a satin stitch. The black silk pieces were sewn down first, followed by the satin and finally the rust silk. Any place the appliques overlapped, the stitching was stopped at the edge of the different coloured piece - there was no sense in stitching something that would then be covered up. The process was slow to guarantee neatness and a minimum of shifting.

Construction: The jacket was put together as per the pattern instructions - nothing earth shattering to mention here. Except a small reminder that when sewing cut on sleeves, it always a good idea to strengthen the underarm seam with a piece of seam tape or a sturdy selvedge edge from your fabric (see photo at right).

A matching coffee coloured Bemberg lining was sewn in by hand to conceal all the raw edges inside the jacket.

Project Photos: Below there is a full front picture and a closeup, as well as an inside view.


















Conclusion: This was a very time consuming, labour intensive article of clothing. I figure I spent close to 20 hours from start to finish on this project. Considering this is my first attempt at applique work, I am quite pleased with how it turned out. I can foresee attempting other "Rucci-esque" designs in the future - I am always inspired when I see his work.