17 January 2007

Domb Luck - Part 3

Hemming
After completing much of the dress, I put it on a hanger overnight to allow the bias portion of the hem to stretch out. The next day, after checking that the skirt bottom was indeed an equal distance from the floor all way round, I decided to do a double fold hem. Since this the skirt on this dress was quite full, I was limited to a fairly narrow hem. The fuller the skirt, the narrower the hem is the usual rule of thumb. On a skirt such as this one, I would normally try to keep the hem to about a 1/2". However, I decided to go with a 1" hem this time. With a 1" double fold hem, I think the extra weight and stiffness will help the skirt sit out from the body nicely. This is the method I used:
  • stitch 1" from the bottom of the skirt
  • press fabric to the inside along the stitching line
  • fold fabric up 1" again, using the previously folded fabric as a guide
  • hand stitch the hem, using a catchstitch
I prefer a hand stitched hem for several reasons. Since the skirt was underlined in organza, the hem is tacked to the organza and thus, no stitches are visible on the outside of the garment. Also, hand stitching allows the seamstress a greater degree of control. For this particular hem, I had a lot of easing to do to get the hem to lie nicely - by hand hemming, I was able to accomplish this with a minimum of puckering. Finally, to complete the hem, a good pressing with lots of steam gives a nice crisp edge.

Outer Finishing
Just under the bust, on the seam of the empire waist, a band and bow is affixed. The band is applied from the left front edge, where the zipper resides, all the way around the body and it ends back at the left back edge. This leaves an opening, so the zipper is still functional. A bow is sewn to the centre front, on the band. I love this little detail - it just looks so darn cute! The original dress had rhinestones sewn onto the bodice - I have yet to decide if I will add this embellishment. As of now, I am calling this dress finished. This is my second completed SWAP item. Only 9 more to go! Below are the front and back views of the dress. Although I strongly believe that a garment looks so much better on a real person than on a hanger, I have decided to wait on posting photos of me wearing the SWAP items until I get them all done. Besides, I want to get the petticoat done before I model the dress.

10 comments:

Anonymous said...

Shannon I absolutely love all of your dress patterns and this dress is just fabulous. I am very much enjoying watching and reading about the construction. Are you planning on giving a "play-by-play" of the constructions of the others in your new swap? I also love the pattern weights! Great idea!. Thanks for some wonderful inspiration. I have several vintage dresses that I want to make for myself and seeing what you are doing here has put me in the mood to go through them and make a plan. Great site. Thanks, Sew it Seams.

cmarie12 said...

Shannon - this is a beautiful dress! And I loved reading how you put it together. I totally understand about taking pictures with you in the garments...it will take away the full effect. I pretty much decided to do the same thing! Can't wait to see what comes next!

Mardel said...

Beautiful dress Shannon! And reading your progress notes has been wonderful.

Definitely wait on the final photo. You need all the accoutrements. Besides this way each item is like a teaser, or a piece of the puzzle, building up anticipation for the final reveal.

Kim said...

Shannon - I also am enjoying reading about your progress on your SWAP items. I love this dress, it is so cute- I also love the bow!!!

Linda T said...

Absolutely beautiful!

Marji said...

That is just TDF.
Love the detail. Did you consider using horsehair braid inside the hem?

Leslie in Austin said...

Absolutely fabulous. I thoroughly enjoyed following along as you created this!

Shannon said...

First off - thank you all for the wonderful comments.

Sew it Seams - I didn't know if everyone would actually want to read more play-by-plays on my garment constructions, but I guess since people seemed to enjoy it, I will keep doing it.

Marji - I did consider the horsehair braid, but I couldn't find any locally. Being the impatient gal that I am, I decided to finish the dress, rather than wait for some to be delivered. I really should get some for the other dresses though.

LMH said...

Gorgeous dress, very beautiful & beautifully sewn. I loved seeing the details of the construction process too. I can't get enough of that sort of thing.

Lisa Laree said...

Wow!